Israel’s Public Space-A Matter of Jewish Identity, Sojourn 3, Letter 4

The Old Questions Return

I began this year’s letters with reflections on public space—in the ElAl plane on the way to Israel. It is this subject that has occupied me as I’ve continued to read some absorbing articles in Azure—which I discovered thanks to Leon Morris, and in Jewish Ideas Daily, a FREE online daily journal which I highly recommend and which also came to me via Rabbi Leon. Thank you Rabbi Leon Morris.

As you may recall, I was very disturbed by the Haredi overtaking what I consider public space on our flight to Israel.  As it turned out, this was not a temporary concern: It led to a lot of “deep thought” about the nature of public space. I am not unaware that, to the Orthodox of any religion, the necessity of saying one’s prayers or performing other rituals, supercedes any claim of public-ness. I understand, as well, that as a post-modern nation, Israel is particularly sensitive to minority cultural demands. And then, of course, I understand my own annoyance (small word for it) with what feels to me like an invasion of what I expect to be an ethnically and religiously neutral space.

Articles in Jewish Ideas Daily and Azure were very provocative, as almost anything is when you are internally wrestling with a disturbing question. I was troubled by several questions and I didn’t realize how they all were conjoined conceptually. Here’s what I’ve worked out so far. I hope readers will respond with critiques and help me see the connections and distinctions better than I have to this point.

How Did Israel Get This Way?

Everyone knows the Haredi are spreading out. Their numbers are expanding faster than anyone else’s in Israel; even the Pals aren’t reproducing as quickly. They are also a mighty force–considering their numbers–in the Parliament. As many in Parliament would point out, it doesn’t need to be this way. Netanyahu needs the Orthodox to keep a coalition together only if  he disregards others—say Kadima—with whom he might align instead.

We are, I think, all familiar with the recent outrages that growing Orthodox power has led to: A distinguished female surgeon being prevented from stepping up to receive her prestigious award from a professional organization because Orthodox people in the audience had to be spared the atrocity of having to look at a woman; a brutal physical attack on a woman posting posters for an event in Beit Shemesh; an attack on a woman soldier who refused to go to the back of a bus; and, of course, the notorious attack on an eight year-old girl whose long dress and long sleeves were not deemed modest enough by some loony Haredi men.

We are also aware that the government provides free housing, roads, transportation, and private schools to an entire population that refuses to work and pay their fair share of taxes, and that refuses to do military service which is, theoretically, required of all Israeli citizens. (Thank Ha Shem the Supreme Court , headed by a woman, has ruled that the military exemption for Torah studiers is unconstitutional; it will be interesting to see how the Haredi get around this, but they will, I assure you.) How can this continue, especially under troubled economic conditions when tax dollars are scarce? And how did it all happen to begin with?

Sherwin Pomerantz, my source in Jerusalem , tells me that most Israelis were just not paying attention. The Haredi were in separate communities, not forefront in any secular Jew’s mind.

Well, of course, this was Israel’s first mistake: How do you form a new country with government supported segregation of minorities? How does a new democracy expect to mature when it subsidizes separate housing for a major part of its population and subsidizes—to the point of full support—separate schools for students who read only Torah and never learn the core subjects that make up a liberal education? What justifies, the maintenance and support of two totally separate populations in a single, tiny, struggling state? (And we are not even discussing the Palestinian Israeli citizens who are also excused from military service and receive substantial welfare benefits because their women refuse to work. They, too, school many of their children in schools that do not produce citizens who can function in a liberal democracy.) How did this happen? Sherwin says the Israelis were asleep at the wheel, that they were not conscious of what was happening until things got really out of hand.

No. Not in such a tiny, politically charged, country. You don’t fail to see things. You perhaps refuse to recognize these things. Why?

My own theory is guilt. Israel’s secular Jews (the majority), I believe, looked the other way when the Haredi were building their steam. Netanyahu, himself secular, surely saw what was happening and looked the other way.

My view is that secular Jews in Israel understand that the claim of Israel to be a “Jewish State” is in doubt if there are no real, practicing Jews here. The Haredi are their alibi. The Haredi are the proxy Jews, the ones who stand in for everyone else, supporting the claim that this is really a nation of Jews. With a population made up of Ethiopians, Sephardim from the Maghreb, Asians, Indians, Anglos (in great numbers), as well as a huge population of mashed up Russian emigres, it is difficult to make a case that bloodline is what constitutes Israel as a Jewish State. So, let us just say that this is the place that welcomes and supports fundamentalist Orthodox Jews as nowhere else in the world does. This is their homeland; that is “what Israel is for.” That is what will justify its special status in the world! That is the argument, I think, that explains why the Orthodox, even when they get violent, are not arrested for behavior that would put anyone else in jail. They are the holy men, the priests of Israel. They get a pass that you or I would not.

Israel can be very happy with this state of affairs. It cuts the old troubling baby in half in Solomonesque fashion. Is Israel a nation among nations, or is it a theocracy? Well, giving the Haredi a pass allows Israel to say that it is two mints in one: It is a secular democracy—for the most part, but it allows to flourish within itself a theocracy, a nation within a nation of people governed not by the laws that apply to all citizens qua citizens , but a nation ruled solely by a religious text, by God. So Israel is both. Now the most difficult question confronting it goes away.

NOT SO FAST!

 

The Post-Modern View of Public Space

A recent article in one of the Jewish weeklies extolled the loveliness of spaces in Israel—in Jerusalem and elsewhere—where public space is being overgrown by “markers of cultural minorities.” (You can tell right off, by the language employed to discuss the subject, that this is a post-modern analysis, drenched in political correctness. But let us not tarry.) On every corner, along every street, the writer gleefully relates, we can see people fencing off parts of the public thoroughfare to make it their own, setting up markers of their particular (another politically-charged word) cultural preferences. What a lovely patchwork quilt, what a lovely rainbow of cultures, what a lovely post-modern world! Hooray for tolerance! Hooray for the minority right to be heard, to express, to lay claim! No longer shall the minority be the victim of the majority as in the old days and ways of democracy.

Yes, this hodgepodge way of cutting up public spaces into ethnically diverse patches or sectors is kind of pretty if you like visual chaos. And I have to agree that “planning” of public space in the West has gone too far in imposing sterile meaninglessness on too many of us. The “modernist” city is, as the post-modern complainers, say, a neuterer; the “master discourse” strips away all flavor.

But post-modern critics go on to argue that this neutral space– what the “masters” consider neutral–is nothing more than a highly-charged, politically-flavored space that reflects the values of the capitalist, techno-centered, rationalist, secular, ruling classes. There can be no truly “neutral” space; everything embeds some values or other. And because of the way power works, the master narrative is always what gets embedded. We are all so overwhelmed with the master atmospherics, that we don’t even notice how these values pervade our lives and determine our choices, choices that are no way as free as we imagine.

A space that is conditioned by a master narrative, the post-modern critique goes, deprives cultural minorities of their rights to express themselves in a space of their own. The clean, rationalist geometries of modernity are not really value-neutral, they import the aggressively competitive values of a Western, male-dominated, hi-tech culture. (I am always amused at how glibly p-m critics characterize Western culture as “male-dominated” when Arab and Asian cultures keep women enslaved and illiterate, while American universities graduate more women than men. But let us not tarry.)

The post-modern argument is, then, that planned public space oppresses minorities by taking all public space for the majority. The writer I’ve referred to rejoiced that, in Israel, she is seeing signs everywhere of minority cultures fencing in pieces of that space and making it their own, taking  it for themselves simply by imposing their cultural markers on it, sometimes segregating it from other space with actual fences such as stone ledges, shrubbery, curbs, etc. Is this really something to rejoice over?

If the trend continues, Israeli cities could end up not as colorful patchworks, but as clusters of fenced-in communities, pressed tightly against one another, each regarding the others with contempt and distrust, each proclaiming itself as distinct from others, and so, each proclaiming the other as, well, other. How does this serve the ends of a new nation?

Yet, by subsidizing separate, segregated communities for separate religious sects—by helping to keep them separate—Israel is discarding its original founding ideal of a “gathering in” of Jews from everywhere, a nation of all the diasporized peoples, melded into one Jewish state. The bowing and kowtowing to particularism, other-ness, and all the other mighty gods of  the post-modern ethic, is building a nation divided against itself, a possibility that has always threatened the Jews who tend, by nature, to be disputatious and more individualistic than is good for nation-building.

One question is: Does the maintenance of a “neutral” public space actually deprive minorities of their rights? Does the imposition of a master discourse oppress in the way new critics say it does, or does it actually foster the building of an Israeli identity, crafting it from diverse ethnicities that have now been “gathered in?” Is the development of an Israeli “master discourse” something Israel should shy away from or embrace?

My answer to this question is that a neutral public space dos not tread on any rights whatever so long as there is respect for private space as well. Public squares that reflect no one’s values—or the master values, if you prefer—are not oppressive so long as the society that maintains them also allows for private spaces–gardens, religious institutions, private schools and community centers, in which the values and ethnic markers of particular inhabitants can be given full play.

In America, I can hang a huge portrait of Hitler on my living room wall if I so choose. No one can make me take it down, no matter how offensive the surrounding community may find it. It is in my private space. But when a colleague of mine, years ago, hung such a portrait in the shared office of the philosophy department where I had my desk, I complained to the university president and the offending object was promptly removed. Shared space is public and must remain acceptable to all; private space is for whatever you will. The point to note is that both are possible in a single country. No one gets trod upon by the maintenance of public space so long as private space is fully within the control of private individuals and protected by the community as such.

Israel has a vital interest in maintaining its public space. As a country that is still struggling to find its identity in the world, the public sphere is where its identity is both shaped and announced to others. The public space is where the notion of the “other” as opposed to the Israeli, becomes defined.

Israel began on the right– very powerfully right–foot by constructing for itself an Israeli language. It rejected the separate, certain-to-be divisive multiplicity of languages its emigrants would bring with them. It “imposed,” if you will, a new, difficult language with what was, to many, a new alphabet, on everyone seeking citizenship in the new land. It assiduously set about educating all its new citizens in this new language. That was a great start toward forming a new culture that was distinctively Israeli. The state arm charged with preserving Modern Hebrew as the official state language continues to be vigilant in safeguarding the use of Hebrew in all public institutions. (See Ha-aretz, February 29, 2012)

Over time, Israel has managed to define an Israeli cuisine—still a work in progress, but progressing rapidly—an Israeli style of painting and sculpture (see the Tel Aviv Museum of Modern Art,) an Israeli cinema. It has inspired more than 70 Israeli folk dances that are performed weekly at sites all over the country by ordinary citizens utilizing public spaces. It has a powerful sense of itself as a hi-tech, medically advanced, smart new culture in a competitive world.

Public space as an arena for expression of these new cultural norms is an absolute necessity to advancing Israel’s emerging identity. This is why Israel, more than more established nations, must preserve and widen its culturally public spaces, not allow them to be hijacked by particularist minorities. In a modern democracy, you would think, that should be more than obvious: It should be a conceptual slam-dunk.

The problem is that Israel is not, like America, a country coming of age in a “modern” world. Before Israel could find its mature footing, we found ourselves in the era of post-modernism, an era that doesn’t regard democracy as the fairest way to proceed because the majority will always end up, in their view, “oppressing” the minority. The post-modern critique rejects democracy in favor of something they regard as more just: A heterogeneity that gives equal voice to all, regardless of number or power. Assimilation—the aim of Israel’s founders is, according to this view, an immoral goal. Israel should not aim to make composite Israelis of its people; rather, it should aim to remain a hodgepodge of distinct, often opposing, cultures.

The cultural problem for Israel is then, as post-modernism views it, neither the fundamentalist Orthodox nor the Palestinians, both cultural  “others.” The problem for Israel is– modernity itself! In this post-modern world, the universalist ideals that lay at the core of modern thought are repulsively regressive. The idea that we can all live as one, (See Ze’ev Maghen’s “John Lennon and the Jews”,) is itself an offensive notion. We have to live apart from one another, with fences constituted by cultural markers, each of us proudly proclaiming difference.

The ideal, of course, is that we will all learn to love the differences that divide us. Good luck! Without some common ground—nurtured in common spaces—tolerance stands no chance. Human nature simply isn’t that forgiving. (E.g., I will never learn to enjoy having Orthodox Jews take over an ElAl plane to create of it their private prayer space; and I will never forgive those same people for treating a World Heritage Site, the Western Wall of the Temple in Jerusalem, as their private synagogue.)

But how does a new, integrated, nation emerge in a world directed by the post-modern vision? In America, there was so much land that newly arriving groups found space for themselves among like-minded others and put a lot of no-man’s-land between themselves and others. Over generations they melded: Children traveled to other regions and settled among the “others;” educational and employment opportunities compelled people to leave their first homes, the dustbowl forced people to pick up and move and mingle with others. People intermarried…and John Lennon’s world started to take shape.

This took time, of course, but never was there a national policy standing in opposition to the melding of cultures! A distinct American culture emerged because, far from standing in the way of this, American public policy promoted open societies within its larger society. Laws were put in place prohibiting discrimination in housing and employment. Israel might argue that it, too, prohibits discrimination, but what Israel practices as official public policy is segregated housing for the Orthodox, for Palestinians, for secularist Jews. It makes no attempt to compel secular and Orthodox to live and work together. The argument given in support of this is that, unlike the situation in America, this is one to which both parties consent: The secular do not want to live among the Orhtodox any more than the Orthodox want to live among them. This approach to the discussion masks the deeper, more obstinate, problem. The deep problem, as I’ve said, is… modernity itself. Zionism, which dreamed the Israeli nation, was a thoroughly modern idea.

Modernity and Jewish Identity

Modernity, based as it is on the ideal of universalism–the rationalist principle that all humans are equal in a fundamental way and thus share a common set of inalienable rights—implicitly demands a concept of the self as private. The inner self is where free will is sourced; it is the self which, despite empirical appearances to the contrary, is equal in respect and power to every other self.

The individual whose rights are held in common with all others lives among those others in a public space, but he retains a private space, a conscience, in which he thinks as he wishes to think, imagines what he wishes to imagine, believes what he chooses to believe. This sense of the inward, private, individual is as much a part of the modernist, universalist ideal as anything else.

Possibly, the sense of privacy of self is the defining characteristic of the modern. In the history of art, for example, a turn toward the  expression of inner feelings and perceptions—the subjective turn—characterizes the modern moment. Similarly, Descartes’ reliance on introspection as a reliable source of philosophic truth is, again, the starting point of modern philosophic method, another “subjective turn.”

And in religion, Martin Luther’s notion of private conscience is what defined modern religion. A turn away from public ritual and overt action to emphasize faith and conscience, is the mark of the Reformation, a concept of man’s relation to God that arose at the very time man, in all his other spiritual modes, was turning inward.

Each person, Luther held, is responsible for the state of his own private soul. Apart from his community, apart from his church, apart from his nation, each person had his personal relationship with his conscience and with his God. Inward man stands alone. His salvation is something he must sort out with God–his own God–God as he, himself, finds Him to be. There is no church that can mediate this salvation. There is no community which, above any other, can make salvation possible. And this is the paradign of all modern understanding of religion: Man is responsible for himself and so must find his way on his own. Faith is an inner, private matter.

And here is the key to the problem of Israel: Faith, as it is understood in a modern world, is something we can take care of in the privacy of our own private spaces. Churches can co-exist among churches that preach entirely different cosmolgies. People of different faiths can walk the same streets, share school buildings and teachers. With the notion of the private, the secular becomes possible as the neutral ground where universal values prevail.

The notion of the private creates the modern schism that makes it possible to separate the public, shared, values of the public entity, the state, from the privately held values of the individual. Thus, the individual lives in two worlds: his own private one and one he shares with others. He is thus subject to two sets of laws: The moral law (see, e.g. Kant) and the public civic law. One, a law of conscience, the other a law of overt behavior toward others.

Now, why is all this a problem for Israel? For those who still adhere to Zionist thinking, it’s not a problem at all. To the Zionist, Judaism is a religion like Protestantism. It involves a belief system, a theology, a set of shared rituals—all of which can be kept in the private sphere, all of which can be held as a matter of private, individual conscience. The founders of Israel, Zionists, were modern-day men who assumed that the values of the Enlightenment—what post-modern thinkers call “universalist” values—would prevail and form the basis of the new Jewish state. They never imagined that old-line, pre-modern Orthodoxy would enjoy a ressurgence

 

Jewish Identity As Pre-Modern

I have been waging what amounts to a private philosophical war with someone who I should know knows better than I, with Leora Batnitzky, professor of Jewish Studies at Princeton. Batnitzky argues—and not everyone agrees, I can assure you—that Judaism was not a religion until Moses Mendelsohn re-conceived it as such in order to line it up happily alongside, say, European Protestantism.

I have been saying this is utterly ridiculous. Surely, I said, the entire Torah is nothing but the story of Man’s Struggle With God. And if God is in the picture, then you have a religion, no? And so the Torah is a religious text and the Jews have been a religion since the Law was first handed down. How could Judaism be anything but? Harrumph!

I was wrong. I stand corrected. Batnitzky may very well be right—and probably is—when she says that the term “Judaism” is of very recent vintage. The Jews and Judaism are two different things. Even more important, they are two different categories. The Jews were/are a people, a nation. Judaism is an attempt to make of that a religion. Why do I say this, at last?

Regardless of the historical facts relating to Mendelsohn, et al, Batnitzy’s analysis is significant for sorting out the problem of modernity as it applies to Israel and Jewish identity. When God handed down the Ten Commandments, the argument goes, He created a nation. He chose these people as His; they and their descendants, of course, had no choice in the matter. So, according to Orthodoxy, if you sprang from the loins of a woman linked in a matriarchal chain to one of those original recipients of the law, you are a Jew. Can’t help but be. More significantly, from a moral point of view, you have no say in whether you must obey the laws of Torah or not. God made that decision for you.

This is, of course, very primitive and that is why I have objected so strenuously to it. As more modern people—there’s that word again—we’d like to say we have free will, that we can choose for ourselves what laws we will obey. As modern folks we sense we have inner selves and we’d like to think that our private inner space is where, say, our faith or lack of faith is stored. As modern people, we see very little of value in laws that are imposed from without, in laws that do not take account of our intrinsic value as rational, respect-worthy beings whose respectability hinges precisely on the free will that this primitive view denies us. But that is not Torah!

Batnitzky points out, rightly, that the Torah is not a religious document so much as it is a political one. It is a set of laws whereby a nation is constituted. The constituting act is God’s covenant with a particular group of people. What results is a covenanted community. That is something we tend to lose sight of (unless like Sandy Balsam and me you were in a political theory class taught by Professor Roelofs at N.Y.U. in the sixties.)

A covenanted community is one way of defining each individual’s relationship to his community and its law. It describes a particular way of binding the individual actor to the law governing his actions.

Consider: In Plato’s Republic, the law is determined by “he who knows.” The Philosopher King is the ruler and giver of law because he knows better than anyone else what is best for the social entity as a whole and, thus, for everyone in it. Why must I obey the law? Because it is, by definition, what I would choose for myself if only I were wise enough to know what is best for me. What Roelofs called the “constituted community” is a nation under law, which law constitutes the nation by expressing, in Rousseau-ian terms, the General Will. The great good luck of having a Philosopher King around is that he, by definition, can intuit the General Will, what all of us would choose if we only had the intellect to intuit what it is. The constituted community is founded on a myth, the myth of the Philosopher King who, as a practical matter, is an impossibility. The constituted community is, then, an ideal.

A second way of binding people to a set of laws, and thus making them into a nation, is by way of contract. The “contractual community” is based on the view that I must obey the law because I have agreed to do so. You and I and everyone around here has met around the campfire and agreed that some law is better than none at all. Lacking a Philosopher King, the argument goes, we put someone in charge and we all agree to obey his laws. Why? Because otherwise we will live lawlessly. Our lives will be “nasty, brutish and short.” So, we get ourselves a tyrant who brings us peace. For this we agree to his/her rule. The so-called social contract was not, of course, something any of us actually signed on to. It is, like the Philosopher King, a myth. It is the binding myth of this type of society, its explanation for why its people must obey the law.

Contrast both of these ways of conceiving the social bond with the way the individual is bound to the law in a covenanted community. In the Torah, we discover another myth, if you will, the myth of God speaking to Moses on Sinai. The state, in this case, is created in the moment of God’s choosing His people. The giving of the law is what creates the community; the law and the community are, in fact, one and the same. The giving of Torah is what makes Jews a people.

In the case of the covenanted community, the only answer to the question, “Why should I obey the law?” is that God told me I must. This is a huge difference from the other two types of community in that what binds an individual to the law lies wholly outside himself. It is not private; it does not include a self; it does not begin to imagine the possibility of a private individual self! For this reason, I will call it primitive as opposed to the constituted and the contractual communities, both of which suppose a schism between the public citizen self and the private individual self. It is possible in each of those other two types of community for the private interests of an individual to run counter to what is required by civil law. Obedience to the law as demanded by civil peace, requires that the individual set aside his private interests for something he values more: the public good. The covenanted community, as an idea, imagines no such internal schism as a possibility.

Consider: I obey the law set down by the Philosopher King because it is what I—a person with private appetites that may not want to obey the law—would chose to do if I knew what was in my own best interest. Note how central to all this I—the private self—am. I’m induced to obey the law because it is what I know is best for me.

I obey the law of the contractually established tyrant for similar reasons: I prefer peace to a state of each against each, the state of nature that I must live in if I don’t agree to the social contract. Therefore, I obey the law because as a rational creature I realize that, once the total situation is assessed,  it’s good, or, at least, better, for me than any alternative.

But in a covenanted community, I obey the law because God commands me to. I am not a rational creature here, I have no personal individual dignity that is being respected or looked after by the law I’m required to obey. I do not get to make the rational calculations I make in the other two types of community. I do not get to assess what’s really in my own best—private—interests. I have no free will in the sense that the Enlightenment conceived it. The law is what makes me what I am, a Jew. Without it, I am nobody.

Now it’s the nobody that is highly significant here. Without the covenanted community created in the giving of the law, I am nobody. The law, be it noted, is not directed at my inner—read that “private”—thoughts. It is not about faith in the internal, conscience-driven way of thinking about it. The law directs behavior. Outward, empirically observable behavior, the kind of thing your neighbors know about and are affected by.  In the other types of community, based as they are on a separation between the inner and outer selves, without the community that gives the law, I am still a private self, an inward somebody, a person with conscience, a person with natural rights that demand respect of an community that wants my allegiance.

What does this have to do with the question of Israeli identity in the contemporary world community?

Batnitzky’s response is that to the Jew—the primitive Jew–all life is public life. There is no distinction between public and private; there is no schism in the self and so no conflict between the demands of the community and the private interest of individuals. Well, of course not, because there are no individuals. None that matter.  What matters is how we behave in the community. What you think or believe is not at issue. It’s what you do that matters.

Therefore—are you ready?—being Jewish is by definition a public act. All space is, therefore, public space. One does not leave the public square and go into a place where values are different, more individual, than they are out in the open. One’s private life is public, one’s public life is thoroughly integrated with the community, its norms, its laws, its protocols. Jews, Batnitzky would say, exist only within a Jewish community.

Jews require other Jews around them. Not to head off feelings of isolation nd loneliness, but simply per se, the Jew requires a community. After the destruction of the Temple, Jews dispersed, but always in tightly-sealed communities. Perhaps this is what engendered distrust and ultimately hatred in Enlightenment, Protestant, secularist communities.

Jewish intellectuals in Europe welcomed the Enlightenment, believing that its doctrines of natural human rights and universal dignity would relieve or even vanquish anti-Semitism. But their fellow Jews—particularly in Eastern Europe—refused to acknowledge Enlightenment values. They understood their Jewishness not as an inward-directed religion like Protestantism, not what Mendelsohn and others cooked up as Judaism. They understood themselves, Batnitzky would say, as a nation, not a religion in the Protestant sense.

Another way to put this–and one that seems less offensive to today’s Jews than saying that Jewishness is not a religion–is to say that Jewishness lacked the sort of interiority that Luther—and then everyone else—deemed the defining hallmark of religion or religious belief. Indeed, Jewish-ness notoriously lacks a belief system, a credo such as distinguishes the Catholic faith, and a defined faith doctrine and cosmology such as marks Protestantism. Batnitzky seems to have this right when she interprets the Torah as a set of laws that constitute a nation, created a “people,” and did not, until the Enlightenment, consider itself a religion. For, how could it when “religion” as it would come to be understood, did not yet exist? The rabbis, we can now see, pored over Torah as judges pore over the law in modern courts, to determine the meanings of precedent decisions. They did not concoct rationalist doctrine or dogma as Catholics like Augustine and Thomas Aquinas aimed to do.

This is a matter over which much ink will be spilt. The take-away which I think helps to make sense of much that has been troubling me—and you, if you’ve been following this—is that Jews cannot be Jews in the Torah sense outside of a Jewish community. Without the interiority, or personal individual self at the center of faith, Jewishness does not stray from the Jewish people. You cannot live as a hermit and practice your Jewishness.

Yes, yes, I know. Jews who were ascetics did just that; there were all sorts of exceptions and weird sects from which you can prove just about anything. But in the broader picture, Jews clung to their community because it was the source of personal identity. Today, the Orthodox still do exactly that and, Batnitzky would argue, for exactly the same reasons.

 

The Problem of Israel’s Public Space Today

Where does that take us on the issue of public versus private space, and urban planning in contmeporary Israel? The Orthodox Jew cannot live in a “neutral” public space because he does not distinguish between his public and his private persona. The public is the personal; the personal is the public. The community and the individual are one; they define one another reciprocally. Neutral public space is every bit as hostile as, say, Muslim public space to an Orthodox Jew.

But, what of the rest of us? How ever do we manage to walk about unoffended in public space? Well, we are modern, like it or not. We have learned to perform that personal schism, that internal separation of inner and outer self that modernity taught us and demanded of us. We take ourselves about with a sense of interiority, a private set of thoughts and beliefs that we share with others or do not share, depending on what we choose to do. When we step outside our private space, our homes, say, we close the door behind us. No one needs to know what’s hanging on my living room wall. Or what’s on my mind. Jews who became conversos could do so because of their modernity; they could keep their deep beliefs apart from their overt actions and words. This sort of schism, this splitting of the soul, is not a possibility for Orthodox practitioners. Orthodox life is, in this sense, totalitarian.

Rationalist, universalist, Zionist Jews—those in America, for example—wonder what the problem is with Israel: Why don’t they just make everyone live and work together? Isn’t that what a liberal democracy does? Isn’t that how the contract works? I tolerate and respect you, and you tolerate and respect me. Our government guarantees us freedoms of religion and worship, of belief and speech, and so on. That means that in my private space, I can do and say as I please. Only when I encounter you am I restricted in what I can do. And I still can believe what I like, so long as I don’t act on it in ways harmful to you. Why can’t Israel do the same and get on with it?

Can Israel do as America does and still be a Jewish state?

The answer, shockingly to some, is no. Not if we mean what Batnitzky means by “Jewish.” A Jewish state is not contractually or constitutionally based, it is a covenanted community. It is –big important difference—not rights based. It is obedience based. You obey the law not because other people’s rights are thereby protected; you obey the law because you must.

A covenanted community is, necessarily, theocracy, a nation under God’s law. It is a tightly-knit community brought together under the myth of chosen-ness. A practicing Jew, in Batnitzky’s sense, cannot live in an open society. The Jew needs more than tolerance of his Jewishness, he needs God’s law ruling the single unified totality of his life.

Judaism-The Modern Invention

Now, let’s see what happens when we change the conversation to Judaism, a concept only recently minted in the Enlightenment. Judaism is a religion, so the reasoning goes. It is interior-based, a matter of faith, a set of beliefs one carries inside himself and for which he takes moral responsibility. Judaism’s faith is not the result of one having been chosen by God or imposed by anything outside oneself. It is what one chooses for oneself, the result of a rational decision, a moral choice. Whoa! Unsurprisingly, it is a lot like Protestantism, that most modern of world religions.

If Judaism is a religion one chooses, then it is, like Protestantism, one among many possible faiths. In an open society, everyone is free to practice his faith, to have his beliefs, to keep his own conscience as he sees fit. We are a bunch of people, then, each of us existentially alone, finding our own ways through the cosmos, taking God as we conceive of Him. A tolerant, constitutional society, unlike the convenanted community of the Torah, protects all faiths, all the faithful, and those of little or no faith at all. It protects the individual rights of all!

Why, you may wonder, should this be a problem for a state which, like Israel, is not only modern, but post-modern? Why can’t the Israeli constitution which, after all, is modeled on both the American and English constitutions, guarantee a right to freedom of worship and freedom of speech and just be done with it?

As  Evelyn Gordon and Hadassah Levy argue in an editorial defense of their article in Azure, Summer, 2011, that would make Israel just like New York City!

Well, and what’s wrong with that? New York is a place where Jews are free to practice their religion. There is a strong Jewish community—in fact, many different and often warring communities—where all the cultural markers of Jewish life are out there in public spaces, taking up and flavoring a world happily shared with others. What’s objectionable about Israel being as comfortable for Jews as New York City is?

What Gordon and Levy find unacceptable in the New York City model is that this would not justify a Jewish state! A Jewish State, they argue, is more than a place that is tolerant and accepting of Jews, more than a place where Jews share with all others, the inalienable rights of  humankind universally. A Jewish State, they say, has Jewish-flavored public space. That is, there is no place in a Jewish State for the sort of neutral public space that arises out of modernist, universalist-rationalist social thought. If Jews want to live in a place that honors them, respects and protects them and their human rights, they can live in New York.

But if the existence of Israel is something special, it must be something no other place is or can be: It must be a Jewish State, not simply a place that respects and protects the practice of Judaism, the religion.

According to this thinking, then, Israel is only justified as a theocracy!!!

 

Now this is why I was in such intellectual pain for the past three years. I was trying to sort out questions of Jewish identity, Israeli identity, the justification for Israel, and the distinction between Jewishness and Judaism. I was looking for the belief system of an Enlightenment religion, one that can be held as a mere part of a person’s identity, not one’s total self, a part that can be taken out on holidays or Sabbaths and then put away when one enters the public, secular sphere.

But all along, I thought the notion of the “secular Jew” was an absurdity. I was right. I just didn’t want to go where this kind of thinking was leading. I didn’t want to conclude that Israel’s existence is only logically justified as a theocracy. But there it is. I’ve ironed things out with the help of many scholars whose work I’ve been pondering for the past three years, and there it is: Either Israel is there de facto, a brute existence, not necessarily morally justified, or it is justified as a theocracy. No wonder Netanyahu is having such a tough time treading the fine line: Both sides are fraught with horrors.

For myself, I have perhaps too much of an interior; in fact, I tend to live inside myself far too much. And, given my natural distrust of other humans, I’m not likely ever to define myself with reference to any sort of community. I am in search of Judaism, not Jew-dom.

Now, can someone please tell me what the belief system is for that?

THE NEED FOR JUSTIFICATION, AGAIN

Sandy asks, once again, why I feel I must justify the existence of the State of Israel. Haven’t we been through all this too many times before.

 

And besides, Sandy says, Does anyone feel the need to justify the existence of France? Of China?

Okay, there are many answers to this question which is, no surprise, really many  questions.

Sandy’s answer to the question is that Israel is the absolutely necessary refuge for a minority the world has seen fit to persecute for millennia. The Jews have, nonetheless, not only survived but contributed positively to the world’s culture and advancement way out of proportion to their numbers. Hence, the world owes this to the Jews. First, as a debt of gratitude, and apology for past horrors. And second to prevent the extermination of Jews in the future.

The answer given by those who are not Jews and not particularly sympathetic—but who must be answered anyway if this is to remain a logical confrontation—is that there are many other persecuted minority ethnic groups for whom the world has not seen fit to provide a separate nation. The Roma, to name one. Why the Jews?

Sandy’s answer to that, if I read him correctly, is the superior contribution and accomplishment of the Jews. That, of course, is an exceptionalist argument with all the politically incorrect reverberations that follow such arguments. Who is to say what “superior” means? Aren’t all humans qua humans equally worthy? Isn’t this just another Western European bit of repressionist, colonialist nonsense?

But there is another part of the question and that is, even if the Jews deserve a nation of their own, land of their own—why THIS particular piece of land, located as it is among their enemies who are, in this particular era, the most aggrieved and bellicose people in the world today, the Muslims?

One answer is to point to the Torah as the source of world law, which, of course, it isn’t. The fact that the Torah quotes God as giving this very land to the Jews to be their own, has no force, either legal or moral, on the rest of the world, only on the Jews who , therefore, keep on insisting on it as both historical fact and moral reason.

But really, why this piece of land? As my old pal, Barry Farber, never stopped pointing out, F.D.R. considered giving the Jews Alaska. Don’t laugh. It has gold, oil, fish, furs—lot so much work to pull a lot of treasure from the land. And many Jews—from the Pale of Russia, for example—were already used to the cold. Farber offered Wyoming as a suggestion. In fact, the British, who eventually “gave” the Jews Palestine, considered first giving them Uganda, also a far richer land than what they eventually donated.

It was European Jews, working hard behind the scenes for decades, who get the Balfour Declaration signed which eventually resulted in Partition in 1948. Well of course, they WOULD want Palestine, but does that mean it was right—i.e. justified—to “give it to them?

Let us start by remembering that other countries, nations like France and China, evolved historically. Through no end of wars and conquests and bartering brides for land, these nations developed over time with the winner taking all he could lay his hands on. Israel was created by fiat. Fiat, an artificial man-made creation. Such artificial creation needs justification. That is the answer in short.

Everyone knows the British did not own Palestine; they were not even in possession of it if you want to lean on that legalistic distinction. They held it under an international mandate. It was, so to speak, in their custody to take care of until things unrelated to Palestine could be settled. So it simply wans’t theirs to give.

If someone barges into your house and takes control of it while you are helpless to throw them out, and then you “give” the house to your children to live in as their birthright, is it now theirs? NO! This is not my analogy, this is the analogy that stands on the other side of the Israeli’s position and it certainly calls, if for nothing else, then for a JUSTIFICATION for why Israel is on this particular piece of land.

NOW, we reach the most difficult question of all: Even if we concede that the Jews must have a land of their own, and even if we concede that that land must be what was promised in the Torah, we have to now ask who are the Jews to whom this land belongs?

Please note: I am not arguing and would never argue, that Israel is should be held to a higher standard of moral behavior because it is the land of “Jews.”  What I think complicates the question almost fatally is the refusal of anyone in Israel to attempt to say what a Jew is. It is then, of course, impossible to say what a Jewish State is.

The present struggle among secular Jews, religious Zionists and Haredi makes it impossible to ignore how deeply this question roils Israel. It is a war, now, and it promises to continue indefinitely into the future. The absence of a Constitution in Israel might be, in part, to blame, and yet, the reason there is no Constitution is precisely this problem, so there’s a circle.

The issue among these factions is the one I treated of in the essay I posted on my blog: Is Israel officially he home of Judaism, a modern day religion, inward and capable of flourishing in a secular nation? Or is Israel the nation founded by the Torah and subject only to the law of the Torah, hence a theocracy of Orthodox Jews who refuse secularism and the tolerance and democratic principles it entails?

Whereas Jews in America used to be concerned that Palestinians would soon outnumber Jews in Israel and force Israel to decide between democracy and extinction, there is now far more concern in Israel, at least, about the threat from the militant and rapidly reproducing Haredi.

This fact makes it more urgent han ever for Israel to define itself and to know for its own sake what it is about, i.e. what JUSTIFIES the existence of Israel. For, as has been pointed out both by others and by me in the essay, if Israel is just another New York City, it has very little claim on the world of nations. Yet, if it chooses to be a theocracy, it will lose a serious claim as well. The most-modern idea of a cluster of co-existing cultures is probably the most promising future for Israel, probably the only one possible.

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LETTERS FROM ISRAEL: THIRD SOJOURN, THIRD LETTER

OH, THE PLACES WE’VE GONE, THE THINGS WE’VE DONE…

Yes, it has been too long between letters home. Gray weather stimulates lots of writing and I have been neglecting the blog. But in the time between blog notes, I’ve had time to re-think so many views I’ve held for a while. And I surprise myself with the places I’ve arrived at now that I’ve had time to chew on some of the BIG QUESTIONS about Israel and Judaism—and Jewish identity– and the relationships among them.

I WILL POST SEPARATELY THE LONGISH ESSAY IN WHICH I RESOLVE SOME OF THESE LARGER ISSUES AND TRY TO TIE EVERYTHING TOGETHER. THE RESULT OF THREE SEASONS HERE SPENT PONDERING AND DEMANDING ANSWERS. I’VE BEEN SURPRISED, AS I SAY, ABOUT WHERE ALL THIS HAS LED ME.

I insisted that Jack travel north as I had done after his departure last year. So we set out together. Like me, he loved seeing the Galilee which is so green and inspiring. You have to love Israel when you travel through it, and be, as we were, very, very proud of all that’s been accomplished there, beginning with the early kibbutzim. Jack recalls there being nothing much there when he visited in 1961.

The orchards of almonds and dates and plums, apples and olives, are gorgeous and the new vineyards—courtesy of Rothschild—are awesome. So are the avocado fields and so on and so on. All through this area, one sees the walls separating the Palestinian fields from the Israel ones, a stark reminder of the fragility of all we feel so proud of.

The Golan, our destination that day, is another matter. Bleak and stony, not a promising place for production. We followed the winding roads to the top and noted the bunkers built along the way by various friends and enemies over time. And yes, we did peer into Syria and yes, we felt terrible doing so. Like eavesdropping on the domestic violence of a next door neighbor. The area is ugly and difficult and our guide, a former fighter pilot, assured us that Israel would happily give it all back to the Palestinians since the Israelis could bomb the hell out of the place if any trouble were to come from there. It was a cold, rainy day and we were happy to leave it behind.

We spent a delightful day in Haifa, trying to see all the stuff the tours leave out: people relaxing in Mediterranean ease at the restaurants and very Arab-style coffee houses, the terraced hills, and, of course, the marvelous views. We undertook this trip by train without benefit of any printed guides. We had not even looked online for a map to give us a sense of the area. So, of course, we began by getting off the train two stops too late and had to ride back. Even then, we had no idea where in the city we were and just lurched around. For two idiots such as we, we did pretty well. We managed to have the best meal we’ve ever had in Israel—that’s three years of meals, mind you. Lamb tagine that was fragrant and succulent and a salad with baked figs and roasted haloumi cheese. We stayed off meat for a week following that. We were so inefficient in our self-guided tour that we resolved to come back to Haifa very soon. The feel of the city is so much older and more Arabic, more mysterious, than Tel Aviv and at least as leisurely. We will return.

Our Modern Orthodox synagogue headed by a young rabbi from Westhampton Beach continues to be a joy. The music literally shakes the walls, thanks to the enormous energy generated by the rabbi who serves as cantor when necessary and also teaches a class every night. There are kids running about, women nursing, and men, young and old, roaring ferociously through the hymns. Again, there is CHAMPAGNE for the Kiddush—really good stuff, I might add. Lots of great pastry, too. This shul is getting a lot of support from several organizations that apparently want to help establish something other than Haredi religion in Israel and I say GOOD FOR THEM. Apart from this place, there is not much religion at all in TLV, and I don’t have to say more about the Haredi creeping over all the rest of the country.

We attended a great Tu B’shevat dinner at the shul which is literally around the corner from us. Next Saturday night, we will attend the pre-Purim party, a Bedouin Night with floor-sitting dinner, a cabaret with some Rebbetzin who has set up the whole thing, a wine bar, and a “Hot Band.” Zowie!

I am so happy to have this place succeeding. I will sponsor the Kiddush there next Shabbat as a farewell to Jack who is leaving on Monday.

With the chilly weather, we’ve been shoved off the beach and into all the cultural meccas this city is famous for. We’ve been to a wonderful chamber concert at the Museum of Modern Art which, I must add, is a gorgeous, award-winning building. Its collection of “modern” art is second or third-rate but it has some wonderful work by Jewish artists like Lipshitz and Gross and, of course, Chagall. Better still, were some artists we weren’t really familiar with.

We’ve also seen some dance at the famed Dellal center in Neve Tzedek which is a truly lovable area and in which we spend a lot of time, a short walk down the beach from here. We are going to see Cabaret on Wednesday at the Cameri, a rep theatre that does English supertitles three days a week. I’m not a great fan of Cabaret but want Jack to see the theatre here. I attended a play there last year without him.

Last night, we headed up to the university for a concert by the Philharmonic. Sibelius, Rachmaninoff and Stravinsky! What a glorious program. The IPO is in residence there all this year while their home space is renovated. I was so happy to see that any seats left at the last-minute—mostly subscribers who cancelled—were given for free to students. They came with their back-packs, army uniforms, bags of chocolate chip cookies…a pleasure to find younger folks at a classical concert. Another lesson, among many, for us in America. These kids had front-row seats and loved it. We also got last-minute tix and sat in the front row. And loved it.

On one of the warm, sunny days we’ve had, we ventured north beyond our usual stopping point along the boardwalk. We were delighted to see that the walkway has been extended into new territory, and restaurants and high-end shops are opening along the way, new places to eat. It’s a very chic, hip, upscale area, self-consciously aiming at retro. I wouldn’t do any shopping, though. Prices for luxury goods are terribly high here—as they should be. Problem is, the usual Made In China stuff isn’t particularly cheap, either. But we loved seeing Tel Aviv expand so exuberantly; always something new, and always bigger, higher, better-built than what went before. Clearly, Tel Avivians are now expecting to stay a long time, using better materials to front their buildings, and building for foreign investors and sojourners. A three-building set of towers in the north have condos selling for over three million DOLLARS. L’chaim!

Today, just one week before Jack returns home, we have the Tel Aviv we came for: deep blue skies, bright, warm sun. Summer clothes and sandals. We walked to the new, very hip, end of the beach and had a scrumptious lunch: Grilled artichoke, tomato and mozzarella salad, a warm chicken salad for Jack with tehina and sumac (?, yes) drizzled over with chopped mint, and grilled calamari in olive oil, tehina and chick peas for me. Israel has really got itself a distinct ethnic cuisine, a NATIONAL cuisine, if I may say so. And it is as sophisticated as it is delicious.

As I said, I’ve been chewing over the questions about Israel’s justification, its identity, its future, and also questions of Jewish Identity and Judaism –a whole different thing, it turns out—which have been wracking me for the past three years, especially during these sojourns. I’ve severed the essay that attempts to resolve all this and am publishing it on a separate page for those who would like to follow this.

One last word, though, on the more serious stuff. Some of you have written, asking how the Israelis feel about the situation with IRAN. What a question! This is Israel. There are as many views about that situation as there are about every situation. There are twice as many views as there are Israeli citizens.

That said, I can’t help noticing a distinct turn to the somber in this, my third year. Part of it is surely the gray, cold weather. Part is also that there are far fewer people on the beaches, the streets, in the markets. The foreigners are apparently staying away. ElAl posted a severe drop in tourist travel. So that makes things a bit more downish.

This morning I got out of bed at 6. There were too many planes flying overhead, and they’d been flying since around 3am, not tourist planes for sure. When we sit on the beach we count the khaki-colored planes roaring by in threes and fours, also not bursting with tourists and business flyers. And there seem to be many more of those khaki helicopters patrolling the shore. Then, wasn’t Polish national radio broadcasting Chopin’s Polonaise in A-major as the German troops rolled across the Polish border?

So we continue to do what we continue to do. B.N. is meeting with Obama the day Jack returns home. If they don’t reach some accord, I may never get to join Jack.

Or any of you.

Just remember that I loved you.

I loved every last bit of it!

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ISRAEL III: Third Sojourn, Second Letter

When the children of Israel go to war against their enemies in defense of HaShem, they prevail. When the children of Israel fall upon one another, destroying the peace in the land, HaShem reaches out with His mighty arm and brings plagues and pestilences against them. He also throws a lot of climatic fits and tantrums….such as sandstorms blowing up from the desert.

And so it was that we discovered when it was morning, the second day, why the streets and the cars and all that was in them were covered with sand, and why neither the ElAl pilot nor the cab driver from Ben Gurion airport could see their ways to our destination.

Amalek is, in today’s world, BIG CORPORATE INTERESTS, and they are subcontractors to the Israeli government for various services such as trash collection, transportation services and the like. Whereas HISTADRUT generally sees to it that workers in these industries get a fairly negotiated wage and benefits, employees in the subcontracted sector are treated like, well, like slaves to the Pharoah.

Enough, said HISTADRUT, and it called upon its laborers to rise up and cease work. And so there opened a wide chasm among the children of Israel with the usual suspects as the bad guys. And lo, a mighty wind blew up from the south and covered the children of Israel with a fine dust that stung their eyes and caused all sorts of mayhem.

But the children of Israel refused to settle their differences and so HaShem did cause the garbage–both wet and dry–to spill, uncollected, into the streets of the cities and towns, and lo, a mightly stench did it cause. It so cluttered the narrow pavements that the children of Israel were forced to walk in traffic. And still the children of Israel did not resolve their differences.

We walked along Allenby Street to the Carmel Market, holding our noses and averting our eyes skyward to avoid seeing what used to be some lovely streets. In the market, we bought pantyhose, a yarmulke and two lovely cheeses. It’s that kind of market.

On the evening of the second day, we attended a Tu B’shevat seder where we blessed the trees for their fruits and nuts and partook of all kinds of fruits and nuts, but first of all of the seven species of the Torah: wheat and barley, figs and dates, wine and olives and…pomegranates. We sang songs to HaShem and poured out four glasses of wine as follows: White wine for the sterile winter, white mixed with one third red for the stirrings of Spring, white mixed with two thirds red for the fullness of Summer, and, finally, a full glass of red wine for the bounty of Fall. Then we dove into delicious pastas and salads and sang some more.

Jack agrees that the newly-formed Modern Orthodox synagogue just two blocks away from us, led by a rabbi who recently migrated from, yes, WESTHAMPTON, is a wonderfully lively, young and promising place to be.

The young man sitting beside me spoke of the wrath of HaShem and said the strike against the government would continue for a very long time. The children of Israel were, he said, once again divided against themselves and were, as usual, stiff-necked and unwilling to compromise. The garbage would continue to reek, the buses and trains would not run and neither would the airports open to allow people to enter or leave Israel. Jeremiah, prophet of gloom.

And so it was evening, the second day.

We continued to walk to some of our favorite spots–the Dizengoff shopping mall had the advantage of being indoors and so was not so offensive as the streets. As the weather was grey and chilly, it did not matter very much. And then it was evening the third day.

To prepare for Shabbat, we walked along the beach where there is very little garbage to the Port where the Friday market is usually a source of great baked goods and sugar-free, freshly-made halvah. The bakery was the usual source of wonders and pleasures but, HaShem being still enraged at His people, the merchant of sugar-free halvah did not show up. We trudged home only half-full.

Kabbalat Shabbat at the Tel Aviv International Synagogue is splendid. This was Jack’s first time there. The music was once again powerfully uplifting, the pace and rhythms carrying us along. In the women’s section, I met and chatted with a woman who is on a trip with Canadian and American Retirees In Service to Israel, a retirement group that comes each year to Israel to teach English, help plant trees etc. They serve in the monrings as they travel through the country, and in the afternoons they attend informative seminars and entertainments. She was having a great time. I thought I’d pass on this info to friends back home who might be interested in signing on for this. The Friday night service concluded with the usual pastry and CHAMPAGNE. And it was evening the fourth day.

We returned to TAIS for Saturday services, expecting the same huge turnout as we found the night before but were slightly disappointed. The service was entirely in Hebrew, unlike the Friday night service, and the melodies were unfamiliar. However, there was a baby-naming and a lovely kiddush to conclude. We will probably return next Saturday to the Conservative shul we discovered last year, and keep TAIS for Friday nights.

From services, we went immediately to the beach where the sun was shining, kadima balls were furiously in play, volleyball, surfing and sailing were in progress and, of course, the fabulous folk dancing was in full swing. I can watch these people forever, but wish more than anything that we could figure out how to learn these dances so we could join in. The internet says there are almost seventy different dances and the people on the beach–all ages, all levels of proficiency, all sorts of getups–know every dance and begin the steps upon hearing just two or three notes of the music. How do they do it? We learned that these dances are taught in the public schools. If you know how an outsider can learn them, please let us know.

We concluded Shabbat with a walk to the Port and a two-hour meal at Fisherman Benny’s, where the mezze are endless, the fish splendid and the crowds jostling our table were thick and noisy. Ah, Tel Aviv! And it was evening the fifth day.

On Sunday we learned that the children of Israel had settled their differences and that the trash that was piled higher than our heads would soon be collected. This was, then, the last moment for the millions of cats of Tel Aviv to enjoy their tuna fish cans and banana peels, their chicken bones and chicken liver lickings. Got the Int’l Trib for the puzzle and lazed about on the beach with it until it was evening, the sixth day.

We begin this day, Monday, with great hopes that HaShem has forgiven His children and that we will emerge onto the street to discover the garbage gone. The children of Israel are extremely competent at easing life and should be quick as a desert fox at removing the offending offal and returning The White City to normal. Baruch HaShem.

We’re off to Neve Tzedek, the bohemian quarter at the far south end of Tel Aviv, perhaps to climb the mount at Jaffa and dine overlooking the sea. Are we eating too much? Well, we are walking a lot and, besides, this is why the children of Israel came to the promised land in the first place!

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ISRAEL III: Third Sojourn, First Letter

I do not recommend flying ElAl to Israel unless you are deeply forgiving. I am not. To me, public is public, private is private. To certain of our brethren, the entire world belongs to HaShem: One world forever and ever.

I behave differently in public from the way I do in private. I don’t wear my pajamas, for example, in public. I don’t convert space I must share with others  into private space. (As, e.g. by conducting a private conversation on a cell phone within earshot of strangers who, I assume, do not want to know about my private life.) But in the Orthodox world, all boundaries vanish, as we discovered on this, our first non-stop flight to Israel, our first experiment with ElAl.

Apparently, if it is all one world, all the world of HaShem, then you do all your stuff in it no matter what that stuff is. And so it was that, before our plane had left the ground, several young women–who looked very old wrapped in black from head to toe–took off their HAIR!!!!! Yes, right there in our shared cabin, just took it off and put it in boxes. Then put on snoods. Ah, so relaxing without my hair.

Shortly after takeoff, a brigade of Men In Black traipsed down the aisles to form little knots all over the plane to conduct prayer services. Again, they did not ask if I minded them taking over my space–my public space–for this private event because there is no public and private, all belongs to HaShem.

All through the night there was much traipsing. True, it was a 10+ hour flight, and I know how it is with the bladder. But, on the other hand, we flew  Japan in a flight that took many more hours than ten. The plane was packed with Japanese. NO ONE GOT UP. No one disturbed his neighbor. Out of politeness, we supposed, THEY HELD IT IN!!!

What is it with the people of HaShem? Jack and I are of that age and yet we made one or two trips, no more. But on our plane, not a single quiet moment all night long. I know this because I do not sleep on planes. I watch movies on Kindle and count the Men In Black traipsing back and forth.

Finally, it was morning. Another long parade of Men In Black. Some in silver and black checked bathrobes. Hats of every shape and size–high on top, low on top, sideways tilted, forward tilted, backward tilted, big, bigger, biggest. Long pants, short pants. Fringes in, fringes out. Shirts in, shirts out. So many fraternities, all on this one plane. One by one they found their preferred spots, wrapped their fingers and arms, set their boxes on their heads and wrapped themselves in blankets. Facing the window, facing the fire extinguisher, facing the huge flight path map that tells the time and weather at our destination. Facing the bathroom. They are praying to the BATHROOM! Well, considering  the events of the preceding night, perhaps that makes sense: Thank you HaShem for clearing my kidneys and bladder that I may greet the new day with a pure and empty bladder.

This conversion of public to private space may not bother others quite as much as it bothered me. I admit I asked myself if I was perhaps bringing accumulated anger about the stories we’ve read about Orthodox abuses in Israel to this situation. Undoubtedly, some of my discomfort was about that. But I know that I would also be outraged by a team of Muslims rolling their prayer rugs out in the aisles, or with a horde of Chinese peasants doing their laundry in tubs on their seats. Or with the person next to me clipping his toenails. There are just some things you do in private –or you do without. I am extremely sensitive about matters of space, and so in a plane, where there is never enough of it, I am particularly jealous of my tiny portion.

In any case, the many prayers said under many different kinds of hats and shawls availed little. We were met on our approach to Ben Gurion airport with what seemed to be an impenetrable fog. But a noisy fog, little rattling and scraping sounds filled the plane. Yegods! We were being sandblasted! A desert sandstorm blowing up from lower Africa, apparently. The pilot did what he could to get us onto the ground. He skidded and scuttled back into alignment and braked to a nerve-wracking stop. HaShem was clearly angry about something, but what?

Whew, off the plane at last. Usually, we feel a great sense of ease when we realize that we are in a city where everyone is Jewish. This time, we were delighted to know that we were in a city where everyone is secular. As for ElAl, once they fly me home again, it’s “Never again.”

Our cab driver had a better time of it seeing his way to our apartment on Shalag Street, but we noticed the effect the sand storm was having on the cars and streets, everything coated in a fine, slippery dust. We managed a weary trip to the supermarket and, of course, to the bakery and, at last, out to one of our favorite fish restaurants for the endless supply of mezze preceding the sumptuous dinner. And so it was morning and evening, the first day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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LETTERS FROM CHINA AND TIBET: MAY, 2011

CHINA ONE

Hello All,
I had hoped to post a new blog documenting my travels through China. However, the Chinese government seems to have blocked access to my webpage so that I cannot post there. I guess I should be flattered that they read this stuff and actually deem me significant enough to block. Funny, I never mentioned China
anywhere in the last postings. C’est la Chine.

We are now in the exquisite ancient city of Xian, starting point for the Silk Route trade and ancient imperial seat of China. After Beijing this is most welcome, a city of vast gardens with fountains, much faux ancient architecture, and traffic that eventually does move. Beijing, for all its infuriating clangor and chaos is something that must be experienced. I have to think that any Beijing resident visiting New York would simply sniff. The buildings are
enormous and very beautiful. much experimental modern architecture as in Berlin, and wide boulevards everywhere. Flowers and trees, gorgeously manicured in profusion. To me, this is proof to cities like New YOrk that if you are willing to expand outward, you can have millions of residents, huge business centers,
all the best shops and hotels AND STILL SEE THE SKY AND SMELL THE FLOWERS. Roses are planted everywhere along the highway dividers and they are fragrant huge blooms; the pomegranate trees are in blossom, the willows and ginkos and
cypresses make everything green. I have to wonder why New YOrk did not simply build many foot bridges to Brooklyn and Queens and build outward to the east and north instead of building upward. Many great cities–Paris, Berlin–have islands
in their centers but did not confine their business districts to those tiny islands. New York is a big mistake in urban design, and a city like Beijing shows what can be done with better conceptual planning.

That said, the traffic is horrific. No traffic lights, just people on bikes and motorcycles and pedestrians crossing wherever they like and holding up everything. No helmets, lots of little children exposed to the hazards of unregulated traffic. Not very Chinese at all.

The beautiful flower beds are hand watered everyday, a great idea for a country with millions of workers. But the beds are not true beds; rather, they are huge clusters of small plastic pots: When the flowers die, the pot is discarded and replaced. Seems like cheating, I think.

I’ve been asked by those at home about the smog. For the first two days the air was perfectly clear.Yesterday it seemed cloudy but there was no eye sting or anything to cause coughing or any discomfort. No one wears a face mask, so far
as I could tell. The lush greenery everywhere does a lot to mitigate the CO2.
But there is also the great benefit of a managed economy. When smog threateneto disturb the Beijing olympics, the government simply forced the offending corporations to relocate. Can you imagine the great outcome of such a strategy in the US? GE pollutes the Hudson so it must close down. Coal mines in Virginia
disturb the land so they must go as well. Let them mine coal in …..China!

Our treks to the Forbidden City and Tiannamen Square were disappointing to all because of the immense crowds and the endless soliciting. In any case, the city is not aesthetically pleasing, simply big and imposing, lots of hardscape. The north end, the Yang or male end, used for political purposes is really desolate
and cold-looking. The smaller south end has a few stilted gardens but they are difficult to see through the crowds.

We traveled to THE WALL and walked as far as we felt comfortable doing. Our group marathon runner and her husband led some of the others a bit farther but we were happy with the views of lilac-strewn mountain slopes and with having earned the right to claim we’d climbed THE WALL.

Walls are intrinsic to Chinese culture; the character for house is essentially a wall. Every city is within a wall, but most Chinese are themselves, very open, happy people, willing to talk freely about themselves, their thoughts and their families. More about all that in the next letter.

We visited the Summer Palace which is about four times the size of the Forbidden City and a true Chinese imperial garden with a manmade lake at its center surrounded by wooden walkways that are roofed and fitted with contemplation benches. But, again, the crowds made it fairly difficult to appreciate the spaciousness of the place, a vast expanse built for the use of one person and his concubines! But this is, after all, now The People’s Republic
and the People are numerous and everywhere. Loved listening to impromptu singing groups in pergolas throughout the park.

Better viewing available on the third day when we went to the Temple of Heaven which sits amid gorgeous lawns planted with thousand year-old cypresses. The flat walkways through it seem to extend forever. Shady and cool and very lovely and the temple itself, which is round–and also quite new since the real one was
destroyed by, er, heaven with, er, a bolt of lightening—is beautifully decorated. But here, as in the other sites, the Chinese impulse to supplant aesthetic FEELING with cerebral ideas does really destroy the aesthetic effect. Feng Shui and Yin Yang Tao stuff require plantings and positioning of buildings that are really unpleasant to the eye and the natural sense of order. NOt, to my
sense anyway, a peaceful outcome.

We, of course, visited the silk rug manufacturing place and the cloisonne place and were prodded to buy at no discernible discount but it was fun to try our hands at cloisonne. WE also visited the school of The Peking Opera and loved watching the kids train there. Then, of course, there was dinner theatre at the almost unendurable Peking Opera. Most hilarious were the lit subtitles which seemed to end in mid-sentence, usually ending with “the.”

Yesterday we had a great time visiting a family in a hutong where we were served lunch and treated to a demonstration of our hostess’ great talent: painting tiny snuff bottles from the inside with exquisitely detailed paintings. She also demonstrated how she made our dumplings and then we each had to show our skill
at dumpling making. Good time had by all.

We left Peking by night train, a real Chinese experience. Fortunately, our tour company purchased two tickets per person which allowed us to sleep two in a “room,” which normally is used for four. EAch of the four beds in this tinycloset had its own TV. One bath for all members of the same train car—usually
40 persons—and three sinks side by side,, unisex, no towels or toilet paper.
But individual private TV’s for all. C’est La Chine!!

Needed a little help getting to sleep because I turned down our tour guide’s offer of the local 112 proof brew, but eventually slept and woke to bathe myself in hot tea in our “room.”

Happier, now, in a really luxurious hotel in Xian which must be the garden city of China. We walked along the city wall today and did something else I can’t remember because of the Ambien, but it was pleasant, if not memorable. This evening, after dark, we will go on our own to a water garden to see the colored lights play on the fountains. Our hotel, though, has a beautiful water garden of
its own, complete with peacock and peahen, mallards, and swans, many willows and stones and little bridges and the winding wood paths with their benches for sitting and contemplating the water. A really perfect Chinese garden.

I really want to write about the people and the more about Beijing but that must wait as the group is leaving for the night garden. Layduh!

CHINA TWO

Hello again,

I am writing now from my upstairs bedroom in a Chinese farmhouse. Not what you’d expect, this is one of a row of cement and cinderblock homes built for the farmers after great protests from the 70% of the population who farm and who were the major support of Chairman Mao in the Cultural Revolution. Until recently, they did not get their payback for the support they gave.

This home is very simple and sparsely furnished but the rooms have high ceilings, huge sliding glass windows and….air conditioning! Our beds are, as they were in every place, Chinese in the sense of very hard. Tomorrow we will begin taking our altitude illness meds and will have to give up the ambient that has helped me to sleep. Ah, what I am doing to get to Tibet!!!!

Last night we attended a terribly touristy dinner theatre for a heavily costumed extravaganza intended to illustrate the luxury and excesses of the Tang Dynasty. Best part of the evening, for me, was the dumpling dinner: 18 different kinds of dumplings, including WALNUTS. Yum.

This morning’s trip to the jade plant was, like yesterday’s tour of the lacquer plant, er, um, factory, highly informative and richly entertaining to the eye. And like yesterday’s tour, we were beset with salespeople at every turn. I want to wear a sign on my forehead that says, “I will only buy if you keep away from me.”

Second stop today was the Small Wild Goose Pagoda and Buddhist Garden. Not a very attractive garden but as everyone agreed, it was a pleasure to be there as we were virtually alone, a great relief after all the crowds we’ve had to fight our way through almost everywhere else. No doubt, Chinese tourists—most of the tourists we encounter—are not interested in religious sites.

After lunch in a shopping mall—which we all appreciated seeing more than the many historical sites, just for its contemporary view of China in action—we visited a Chinese school. WE were met at the door by a class of 42 second graders who rushed to take our hands and escort us to their little desks where they offered to share their crayons with us. I took out a small pad of paper from my purse and made a tiny “eucalyptus tree.” I was an instant hit and had to keep rolling and tearing trees until I ran out of paper. The children performed songs and dances for us—almost all to Western style music—including the Bunny Hop. We returned the compliment by singing “I’ve Been Working on the Railroad” and “You Are My Sunshine.” They gave us little origami gifts and we gave their teacher small gifts we’d brought from home. Then they took our hands again and hugged and kissed us good-bye. This was certainly the highpoint of our trip so far.

From the schoolhouse we were brought to meet our hostesses; there are two couples in each house. We will spend the night here and share in a family dinner with our hosts and watch tv with them. It’s raining very hard at the moment but I do hope we’ll have a chance to walk outside later this evening and take in the farmers; cluster housing in its entirety.

The group we are traveling with is so highly educated and intellectually curious that the conversations about China are endless and always stimulating. All of us remarked, almost immediately, at the unlikelihood of any political change in the foreseeable future. While we were in the cities, ogling the gorgeously lit-up buildings at night and the immense size of everything—buildings, parks, traffic jams—we told ourselves that things are impressive in the cities “but wait until we see the countryside.” Now we are in a farmhouse that lacks wifi but has everything else, very simple and spare but entirely comfortable and enviably spacious: Two kitchens, mudroom, plant room, four bedrooms, two dining areas, tv room….yes, a Chinese countryside farmhouse, yes. We saw no homelessness, crime, prostitution, etc anywhere and what we all remarked on was the variety and expressiveness of clothing styles. Teenagers look like our own, sexy, punky, highly decorated in outrageous shoes and see=through blouses. School children today were not in uniforms but in tee shirts decorated with Mickey Mouse and names of rock groups, and with backpacks that were just as varied. We had to wonder what would motivate these people to rise up and demand more from their government. Human rights are, after all, a very recent invention in the history of the world. I cannot understand why, on the day we arrived, the New York Times led with a piece about jasmine being banned throughout China because it was feared this would remind people of the Jasmine Revolution in the Middle East; Tm Friedman was right: There is no comparison between the oppression of the Arab world which is combined with economic stagnation, and the political oppression here in China where people are flourishing economically.

We have just returned from a discussion group with our tour leader held in the livingroom of one of the farmhouses where our group is staying. It began with questions to the farm wives about their lives but quickly veered to questions of economic and political life generally. We were amazed to learn that although basic health care coverage costs about ten dollars a year, it covers virtually nothing and people must pay as much as 20 percent of their income for anything worth having. So far as health care goes, it would be better to live in Denmark or even England.

Free compulsory schooling goes only to the ninth grade, but 100 percent of the rural population has a higher education for which their families must pay. How do they manage to do this? Farmers pay no taxes whatever; only a small percent of the harvest is given to the government and the rest is shared among members of the community who work the land. They also do other work as barbers, shopkeepers, etc in the farming community. The people who are hosting us and one other couple this evening are being paid by the tour company to do so. Apart from the lack of decoration in the house, this family seems to enjoy a very comfortable middle-class life.

What upset us all was learning about the way the government is keeping people “on the farm.” “Farmer”’ is the name of anyone who does not live in the city, it is becoming plain, so when I say “farmer” I am speaking of people such as our hosts, none of whom actually work the land; in this family, the father is a barber, the wife works in a store, grandma babysits the one and only prince who is two and an utterly adorable king of the household. Although the mother and father are college educated, they are inhibited from moving into the city where decent jobs are because having been born “farmers” they cannot register in a city. This means they cannot get health coverage in a city, cannot send their children to the public schools (thus to any schools) in the city. Only by obtaining a government job in a city can they move there and be registered there. If they get a job with a private corporation in the city, they will not receive benefits and not qualify for residences. Undoubtedly there is much graft greasing the wheels. But, we objected, this is certainly a caste system where birth is destiny. How could Chairman Mao have brought this about? Well, there are millions of people in the teeming cities and the government says it needs farmers, needs people to live outside the cities. So if you are born in the countryside, you will find it almost impossible now to move permanently to the city.

Factory workers, of course, migrate to work in large factory cities and leave their children alone in the farm communities. Hopefully the kids are cared for my others in the community, but the China Daily, the English language paper I’ve been reading each day, reported severe problems with kidnappings and sexual abuses of children left alone in the countryside while their parents migrate for work, returning once or twice a year for holiday visits.

Our tour guide is a Buddhist who has spent several years living in Tibet. He is in his early forties, the son of party members. He is divorced and says he might remarry but wants no children. Our local guide in Beijing said he unfortunately, had a daughter who is three years old. We said “Oh, but you love her anyway, She has stolen your heart.” He denied that; he accepts that he can only have a daughter but is not happy about it. Big chill on our bus. Our general guide, the Buddhist, is highly critical of the government and has confessed that much of what he tells us on the bus is said illegally. He travels with the tour to Hong Kong where he buys  books, uses the internet and spends a lot of time in the library. He said he hopes to live to a hundred so that he might see more personal liberty permitted to the Chinese. He doesn’t sound very hopeful, though. The Chinese people are just too rich and happy, he says.

But there are other reasons to believe that the present political system will endure. The long tradition of absolute respect for authority is as ancient as Confucianism, and the spirit of acceptance is as old as Buddhism, both of which are deeply rooted in the Chinese “personality.” People are most   concerned with their personal well-being and that of their families as in the dedication to Tai Chi and ballroom dancing each morning in the park, the concern with herbs and outdoor living and the very high value all families place on educating their children. Everyone in our tour group remarks often on how little difference the lack of democracy seems to make in ordinary lives.

Another reason to doubt that there will be much of a press for personal rights is that the emphasis on family and a long history of communal effort has produced a society where the individual is traditionally not of great consequence in the scheme of things. The Great Wall, for example, was built by ONE FIFTH of the population of the country all working together. That is forty per cent of all males engaged in one single effort to protect the country. The larger social entity has always come first, beginning with the family. The concept of personal liberty and personal rights does not easily cohere with Chinese society.

That said………for a country that regulates Google and the internet and worries about Jasmine suggesting revolution, for a country that regulates who can live in the city and who must live in the country, there is much that strikes our Western eyes and habits as absurdly unregulated behavior. Many in this group complain of Chinese rudeness but this is simply a generation raised during the cultural revolution when manners were considered bourgeois and the country bumpkin was the revered hero of the culture. More curious, I find, is the utter lack of regulation of traffic. Women on motorbikes with small un-helmetted children on their back seats cut across six lanes of trucks and buses, no one signals, there are virtually no traffic lights and no one-way streets. Our guide says, Well, this is a developing country. I say, why not take a great leap forward by merely copying what other countries do? Traffic lights serve a wonderful purpose. WE have seen at least three or four car accidents right under our eyes every single day and they say, well, we are still developing. Oh, well.

In traipsing around the huge set of tombs of the terra cotta soldiers, we were told to continue around the enclosed area counter-clockwise, which we did. But at least half the Chinese tours were proceeding in the opposite direction which messed up the whole plan. With all the police and all the rules and regulations, I had to wonder why the tourist site itself didn’t undertake to regulate the direction of human traffic flow. I asked, Danny, our guide. We are still developing , he said.

So we have a huge teeming mass of over-regulated, under-regulated people. And a population that loves cars and buys them very cheaply. Of course, a government that can simply shut down all polluting industries and make them move out of Beijing in preparation for the Olympics, a government that can uproot whole villages to build stadiums for the Olympics, can also regulate traffic and can control how many people can drive in the city and how many cars can be sold each year. But I think this government knows what they can take away and what they can’t. They can deny the right to a free press, but not the right to own and drive a car. So they will stay in power.

One last reason why I don’t think this regime will soon pass. Since imperial times, a Roman type structure of governmental hierarchy with  democratically elected local committee governments, answerable to provincial authorities which eventually are answerable to a single unifying ruling entity, has been in place. Of course, there is much corruption. However, a farmer ina remote area has the right to petition to the provincial powers to complain of injustice as the local level and he can personally appeal his petition all the way to Beijing. In this massively huge country and individual who feels wronged can be personally heard at the top of the ladder if he persists. The farmer who was digging a well in 1978 in a provincial area outside Xian, found a terra cotta head, one of the more than 6000 buried by as a funeral tribute by an ancient emperor to himself. The site was excavated and the soldiers pieced together and housed in what is now considered the eighth wonder of the world. The farmer eventually found out about this while watching a tv show about it at the home of a friend. He traveled to the site to see what had been uncovered from his original discovery. But when he arrived at the tourist center, he found that he could not afford the price of admission. He felt it was unfair that he should be blocked from seeing this place where he had discovered this new national treasure and so he petitioned all the way up to Beijing, with the result that the government not only allowed him in, but they gave him a new job. He sits all day in the gift shop at the tour site and signs, in calligraphy, his name in the glossy, lush book of photographs that tourists buy for $25, and is paid a nice salary.

As you all must know, I often have much to complain about; yet I cannot imagine having an audience with Obama, or even with our Secretary of Agriculture, say, about the, well, about the flooding on my property caused by the guy up the hill who took down all the trees on his land to build a Mc Mansion. But don’t get me started.

A government structured so that petitions from individual about very local matters can, in theory, be heard at the very top of society does ensure a certain amount of counter-revolutionary pressure.

As I mentioned, my website has been, um, blocked by the gov. They have also prevented any news of China printed in the WSJ and the Times from coming in. So I’m in good company. But this means that I cannot send you the pictures I promised except as email attachments. I would much have preferred to include them as illustrations in the text as I do  on my website. I’m sorry for this inconvenience. And so is the Chinese Government. They told me so.

CHINA THREE which is helter-skelter due mainly to sleep deprivation due entirely to beds made of concrete  slabs
Hello Again,

Beijing Finish

Our visit this afternoon to a Hutong , the old neighborhoods of Beijing where rows of tiny huts huddle along pedestrian streets–was made marvelous by a lunch visit to a woman who lives in a fairly modern one. She is retired and makes painted snuff bottles–painted from the inside with a teensy brush–to occupy
herself. she demonstrated dumpling making and we took turns trying to imitate her method.

XIAN

This morning we flew to XIAN the ancient former capital of China and home to the famous Terra Cotta warriors. WE had seen a history channel program about this place but nothing compares with the real thing. I will leave it to those of you who are interested to look up the place online for photos and more info as
there’s simply too much to tell.

XIAN is memorable to me for its exquisite gardens. The famous water displays with fireworks held every night were not as impressive as the garden that was designed just last year between our hotel and the water garden. This is a masterful design of winding paths of all sorts of pavings that carry the visitor
from a tiny old cottage, to a pond of lilies and croaking frogs, to a bamboo forest, to the place where the pond empties down a rocky path to become a waterfall. All is beautifully lit to show the forms off perfectly. Young couples lounged on the ledges along the water and on the grass,  so romantic in the evening light. The actual space was small but the use of hills and outcroppings was brilliant and
so we traveled through what seemed like a fairytale adventure. I hope to usethis garden to illustrate the long form of my Inchbald thesis–when I get around to that project–because it illustrates beautifully so many of the points I make there.

Our Hotel, aptly named XIAN GARDEN had its own lovely water garden with liliesand rocks and a winding covered path leading to another part of the hotel. It had peacocks and swans and a koi pool and made for a lovely experience.

Xian’s lesser crowds and traffic made me feel a lot better than I did in Beijing from which I only wished to flee, admirable though it was.
On our second day we visited the Temple of Heaven, Henry Kissinger’s favorite architecture because of its round shape and wooden peg construction. It boasts a lovely garden which was a bit less crowded than those in Beijing; it features a strong central axis with all the usual geometry, but the axis is off center on the site for reasons of superstition and feng shui, I was told.
After the Temple, we visited the City Wall–very old, of course.

CHENGDU

Chengdu is known for its beautiful women, its perpetual haze and its laid-back, teahouse lifestyle, but I was there for the PANDAS! What can I tell you about baby pandas and teenage pandas, and adult pandas…..and red pandas which are really raccoons, not bears, to make you love them more than you already do? Not much, and so I’ll sign off.

CHINA FOUR-TIBET

Hi All,

I am shipboard now,cruising down the Yangtze River. I’ve made many frustrating attempts to pick up my mail and to send you letters from China. Now the wonderful helper from Austria has, after more than an hour’s effort, managed to get me onto Yahoo. I am sending this Letter #3 and two or three others to only
three friends with  requests to forward them to you because the internet is so slow here that it would take  days to send a single long letter to everyone.

Still blocked from my own website and still unable to download, and so send along, all the wonderful pictures we’ve taken here. So those will have towait until we get home.

TIBET

We left Tibet yesterday. For me, Tibet  is the promised land, the place I’ve longed to visit for decades. The air at an altitude of two miles is unbelievably clear and blue, the sun shines constantly, a wonderful change from Beijing, Xian and Chengdu,
all grey and smoggy. The streets are wide and beautiful, traffic is scant and the people are truly kind and quiet, another lovely change from China.

Dr. Kerr swore  I would lose ten pounds during our four days here. I think he was figuring on altitude illness with its loss of appetite, the fragrance of yak butter in everything, and the effect of the altitude on metabolism. What he wasn’t figuring on was that we’d be poisoned by some American food in Chengdu. I was against this idea of eating at an American restaurant from the start. As the capital of Szechuan province, Chengdu is the the jewel in the crown of Chinese culinary virtues and it seemed a waste to eat
at an American style place but that was on the tour so we went along.

That night, Jack and I fought each other for the bathroom; so did some other couples, but not all. We can’t figure out what it was that felled us. I had been banking my sleep hours as advised to save my strength for Tibet’s arduous altitude and climbs, but forget that. I had been banking water as well, but forget that too.
Jack cannot take altitude pills and so was doubly hit by the time we reached Lhasa. With Imodium and aspirin and ambien and Tylenol we battled through and managed, this morning to climb the 356 steep steps of the Potala Palace, really worth sacrificing for but I was amazed that Jack made it, altitude illness and all.

I let myself fall behind our tour and join another, Buddhist tour. More interesting than all the statues and decor and tombs were the people offering yak butter to the massive candles, money to the statues of Buddha–hundreds of them–and the little 3 year-old whose parents handed him over to the monks to be blessed. There was a lot of ritual bobbing and nodding and the child’s nose was streaked with brown butter. He seemed to enjoy this thoroughly. The colored flags and painted walls,the rich embroideries are, of
course, gorgeous. Outside, the prayer wheels spun in the cool blue air.
Magnificent!

This afternoon, we visited an orphanage that was started by a compassionate woman who decided to house children she found on the streets. The government has orphanages for “official orphans” whose parents are killed in accidents and other reportable events, but the government wants nothing to do with products of
out-of wedlock teen-age births, or children abandoned in the streets by parents too poor to care for them. This woman has taken in 73 kids, all of them adorable and none of them adoptable by people outside Tibet because of government red
tape. The kids sang “If you’re happy and you know it…” and “You are My sunshine” and we sang right back to them. Without any government assistance whatever, the woman has managed to build a large housing complex with nursery, reading rooms, dining room and kitchen. A remarkable blessing.

We followed our visit to the orphanage with a visit to a farmhouse of a “middle class farmer.” We were entertained in the “religious room” decked out in all the usual tangkas and prayer flags, an altar, prayer wheel, beautifully painted ceiling and walls. The farmer’s wife served us “three cups of tea” which we mostly declined as it was made with yak butter, and walnuts and yak cheese. Our
guide explained the rituals the room was used for and then we were permitted to roam through the bedrooms and kitchen and dining room and the greenhouses. These home visits are truly the most wonderful parts of this tour.
Although the orphanage lady and the farmer’s wife spoke no English, our guide served as translator and we were able to ask questions. Truly a marvelous intro to this paradise.

CHINA FIVE-TIBET’S POLITICS

The politics of Tibet appear to be far more complicated than we imagined. Our tour guide, Danny, lived for six years in Tibet and served as a tour guide here. He is a practicing Buddhist. He told us that the “liberation” in 1949, in which the Chinese marched in and re-joined Tibet to China as it had historically been for generations, was in fact a very good thing for the most wretched 35% of the population. Tibet was a feudal society in which a third of the people were kept as slaves who were cruelly treated and had no hope of ever improving their situations. When the slaves were freed by the Chinese liberation, the Dalai Lama fled, fearing for his life. The Lama’s exile is now no longer self-imposed, of course, as the government of China fears what would happen politically upon his return. But the Chinese rule can be credited with bringing Tibet into the modern world from its previous feudal state. It is now a place where people have free education, land and homes of their own and poor, but much improved, lives. Llasa is a beautiful city with lovely shops; the farmhouse we visited here has electricity, refrigeration, many comfortable rooms and, of course, a television. What the outside world viewed as a quaint Shangri-la is gone and it doesn’t appear that the 35% of the population who lived as slaves feel any nostalgia for it.

Buddhism is openly and actively practiced, the Tibetan language is spoken and Tibetan housing and dress traditions are adhered to. As an “ethnic minority” the Tibetans are not subject to the one-child law. It should be pointed out that, although 35% seems a small minority, one third of the population at the time were in monasteries or convents; the other one third were wealthy landowners who kept the slaves. It was about one half of these wealthy landowners who urged the Dalai Lama to flee and who then, taking most of their gold and precious belongings with them, fled across the Himalayas to follow him. In India, they sold some of their belongings and set up lucrative businesses. The aristocrats who remained behind agreed that Tibet should be modernized and willingly gave up their slave holdings. This, from our guide who is very anti-Chinese government and very pro-Tibet, and a practicing Buddhist. So, all in all, it seems that, the Dalai Lama aside, those who fled in 1951 have made out very well, those who remained on have vastly improved lives because they were liberated from slavery and have had the opportunity to educate their children. The monks remained undisturbed in their monasteries and it does not appear that the aristocrats who remained on have much cause to complain.

So we were left to wonder who began the uprising a few years ago that has resulted in soldiers being posted at every street crossing. Someone, we can’t know who, is quite dissatisfied.

As for me, I love this province and, of all the places we have visited, this is the one I would like to return to to live here for perhaps a year. The streets are impeccably clean and very lively and colorful and surrounding all are the snow=capped mountains and remarkably fresh, crisp blue air. The Tibetans are laid-back, polite, honest people who do not pursue you aggressively when you stop to examine their wares—as the Chinese inevitably do. The Tibetan language—written left to right with an alphabet of 30 consonants and a few vowels–is sweet and mellifluous, unlike Chinese which is barked loudly—screamed by women—and involves so much aspiration that you wonder they don’t turn blue in a long argument. Tibetan food, of course, does present some problems: everything drenched in yak butter and most meat dishes based on yak, and a lot of hot peppers, but we have had some quite delicious Chinese food and I figure if I lived here I’d cook at home and import my own PB&J. Unfortunately, when I asked about coming here “to study” I was told that one has to either have a certified private guide in attendance, or come as part of a government approved group. Would you like to join me in forming a group and applying for approval?

On the other hand, I might eventually be moved to make trouble with the skinny, far-too-serious Chinese military presence. On every street corner stand Chinese soldiers with rifles cocked, facing in all four directions. From the safety of our tour bus, I saluted two or three times and they looked stunned and helpless. Over time, this could become irresistible.

Yesterday morning we visited the most sacred Jokang Temple to which pilgrims frequently crawl over many, many months to express their devotion. Before the Temple, large vats of incense were burning and, in the square, many pilgrims were engaged in endlessly repeated prostrations—a great physical exercise if nothing else.

The Temple houses thousands of bejeweled Buddhas in thousands of nooks and crannies but the main attraction is a solid gold buddy, fat and happy, ensconced behind glass and glimpsable for one half minute per person. We were admitted immediately but the plebes had to wait in line for three or four hours for this honor. Apparently, three great Buddhas, representing three stages in the life of the real guy were created in India 2500 years ago. One was sent on loan to China and was destroyed by Chairman Mao in his cultural rampage. Another was sent on loan to Tibet 1300 years ago—that’s our guy. The third one remained in India and was destroyed in an earthquake, leaving the Jokhang Buddha the only surviving 2500 year-old statue remaining. Something to crawl on your hands and knees for, considering.

In the afternoon we had the extraordinary experience of visiting a Buddhist monastery. There are about one-tenth the number of monks now as there were before 1951 because the government makes it very difficult—bureaucratically—to enter a child in a monastery. We arrived in the afternoon in time for the “Debate session.” Red-robed monk novices sit on small cushions in circles on hard gravel under trees in the courtyard. Their fellow students stand before them and shout questions based on the days reading. As they choose a novice to answer, they slap their hands together and step forward menacingly, as if lunging in a fencing move. If the novice doesn’t provide a satisfactory answer, the questioner is supposed to draw a circle three times around the students head to indicate his head is empty. In one of the groups we watched, a student whose answer wasn’t up to snuff was dealt such a severe blow that his forehead bled.

Fortunately, the questionees get their turns to do the questioning and pay back their tormenters.  This reminded me of first-year law school for its intimidation, humiliation and macho terror tactics employed as “teaching techniques.” In a small courtyard where about forty such questioning sessions were in progress simultaneously, it was an unforgettable sight—and sound!

We also visited the monastery’s publishing house where both sacred and non-sacred texts are printed on long narrow sheets of beautiful paper. They are hand printed using hand-carved stones. Of course, the Tibetan letters have to carved backwards…. Oy!

On to the nunnery, a far quieter and more peaceful place where we encountered most of the residents chanting prayers, hours worth, learned by heart. A few others were winding prayer wheels for use in a new stupa, or monument—which is to be filled with 1000 prayer wheels. The women were singing sweetly as they worked at this tedious task. We have found women doing likewise in rug factories where they spend hours plucking hundreds of small threads as they adhere precisely to the complex patterns the designers have set out for them.

The afternoon visits to the monastery and the nunnery were optional, but I was amazed that, of our group, only five signed on for the visit. To me, the whole point of Tibet is religious practice. Why put up with altitude illness, the bizarre side-effects of Diamox altitude illness pills that do only half the job, and the sketchy food situation if you are not interested in Tibet’s religious practices? Oh, well, they went “shopping.”

Dinner was at a richly decorated Crazy Yak restaurant—a chain– where I ate a heaping plate of broccoli. (I know, I know, it tastes just like beef. But I’m still on Imodium and not taking chances.) We were treated to an amateur performance of folk dancing: lots of stamping and arm-waving in gorgeous costumes concluding with—would you believe it?—four guys dressed as two yaks. Thus ended my day of deep Buddhism.

No commentary on China would be complete without mentioning the toilet facilities, so if you are squeamish, scroll down.

You have undoubtedly heard that 1. most Chinese toilets are holes in the floor over which you—more or less successfully– squat, and 2. toilet paper is generally unavailable; you bring your own. What you may not have heard is that women are great sharers in this human function; they leave the doors open and often conduct conversations with friends or relatives while “in the position.” For those of us who would rather not share, it is necessary to bring a friend to hold the door shut as most stalls do not have locks on the doors and they tend to swing open.

Now if this were a rural area where toilets are a new-fangled contraption, there would be no cause for comment. But this situation obtains in high-rises that are air-conditioned and loom up over super-fast monorails, monuments to technological achievement not even dreamed of in the West. This situation holds in huge cities where a love of western culture is everywhere evident: in the Mickey Mouse emblems on back packs and tee shirts, the four-inch heels and pencil skirts and Gucci bags and Dolce & Gabbana leather jackets that are gobbled up by women of all ages. Except in Tibet, there are no tribal or traditional costumes in evidence.

So this afternoon, having flown to Chongqing, (pronounced Chungking, as in the canned crisp noodles,) I sat in the lobby of the magnificent architectural work known as the Three Gorges Museum enjoying the air conditioning and watching the young museum administrators click-click past in their Manolo Blahniks and tiny skirts, and I noticed they were all wearing panty hose! And I had to wonder: How do they “assume the position” in panty hose. And wearing four-inch heels, no less! Just a thought.

The museum had ONE stall with a western toilet which no Chinese used. How can they adapt to so many Western ways and remain stuck in this awful mode of , well, you know? I asked Danny and he reminded me, again, that this is a developing nation. Oh. But toilet training comes at the very beginning of development. Or is that why it persists? And then, there’s that sticky issue of the panty-hose-Manolo squat. OK, back to less indelicate matters.

The toilet paradox is part of a larger paradoxical situation brought about by the mad dash toward modernity. Amid staggeringly large cities of staggeringly tall housing units—housing staggering numbers of people; amid superfast monorails and exquisitely-groomed landscapes in every city (roses blooming furiously on miles of highway dividers;) amid more fast food than you ever want to think about—there are embarrassing gaps of not-ready-for-prime-time.

The famed Peking Opera with its ridiculous translations, the power outages and dribbling water fountains in airports and hotels, the total absence of traffic regulations in the cities where hundreds must be killed each year by drivers vying for the opportunity to make a left turn or by motorcycles speeding up what should have been a one-way street. It all amounts to a lot of dazzling façade behind which people are scurrying about crazily to keep up the appearance that they know what they are doing when, in fact, they frequently don’t.

“Oh, yes, of course, Amellican Express,” the girl at one of many museum shops said very proudly when I inquired. But after twenty minutes, she had to admit that her machine was not operating. “Very sorry, can’t sell you this. “

I offered MC, a debit card. “No,” she insisted, “it’s not the card, it’s the machine that won’t work.” Many girls gathered offering advice. Nothing worked.

I wanted the jacket for the captain’s dinner on our upcoming Yangtze River cruise. So I asked if perhaps a machine at another stall in the museum might have a working credit swap device. The girls all seemed astonished at the brilliance of this suggestion. The guy selling jade jewelry tried with the Amex card but had no success. I offered him the debit card and he shrugged, dubious.. When it went through, they were all thrilled. I could make that museum a fortune with my capitalist savvy, if they’d let me.

For a Chinese city, Chongqing is very beautiful and relatively free of traffic snarls—or was it that we were on the highway much of the time? The high rises shoot up over two rivers from rocky outcroppings, and the highway dividers and the smaller streets are all banked with lush tropical trees and shrubs of many colors. Bridges and monorails manage to look sculptural. The roadbeds are wide and curve gracefully.

Still, I cannot imagine living in one of these buildings, clustered as they are in fives and sixes and rising perhaps fifty or sixty stories, perhaps more. The Chinese, like the Israelis, are intent on HOUSING their people. But they are not considering the psychological effects of warehousing them in this way. We in New York learned the hard way about alienation and its relationship to crime. Fear keeps crime to a minimum in China, but the effects of alienation induced by these stark housing units will be felt somehow. Children growing up in these places will be, I think, a bit scary as adults. Right now, no one is thinking about this. But in fifty years, when the one-child policy has a deeper impact on population pressure, these buildings will still be standing and their residents will be depressed, socially unintegrated people. Just another thought.

There is plenty of land in China and, if they would use more agricultural machinery instead of doing so much farm work by hand, they could feed their people and still house people more humanely. But if they totally mechanized their agriculture, says Danny, fewer people could be employed rural areas, creating more pressure on city housing. So the government discourages the use of too much mechanization on the farms. The planned economy, Oy, Vay!

CHINA SIX

We were all ecstatic to find ourselves on a very comfortable ship, floating gently down the river after the arduous trip to Tibet. Altitude is not merely a problem when you are there; there is the process of re-acclimating which all of us experienced as exhaustion and drowsiness. Some of us are still suffering from colds or digestive problems but none would leave Tibet out of the itinerary if
we had it to do over again. For me, the most difficult part of this trip seems to be the constant motion, pulling up roots and unloading, logging miles in buses and planes; I’d prefer to settle in one place and take side trips but, again, the only way to see Tibet and China is on a tour such as this and we have certainly picked the best of all possible China tours. The rhythms of effort and
ease, the home visits, and the extraordinary expertise and compassion of our guide who keeps buying us little gifts like a bag of loquats at the fruit market, and fresh juicy ginger roots to ward off colds in Tibet. So we are, as we gorge ourselves at the cruise buffet and sleep on the mercifully soft beds—at last—very happy campers.
We have all stopped at points along the way to beam and smile at Chinese children who seem, to us, the embodiment of child-ness itself. Our guide felt compelled, at last, to interject that Chinese people think their children are not very pleasing to look at; what they adore are children with blonde curls and big blue eyes. A woman on the tour asked why the little costume dolls at the
souvenir shops all had Caucasian faces when they were supposed to demonstrate modes of ethnic dress. “Well,” Danny replied, “it’s because Chinese people think Caucasian people are prettier.”  Ethnicity be damned, I guess. The same, we noticed, is true of the mannequins in the dress shops! I think of the twenty-somethings who crave the ultra-thin, flat-bodied, tiny shapes of Asian
girls, the long straight hair, People are, perhaps, doomed to be unsatisfied with themselves.
Our tour today was along the river in a ferry and then in sampans as we traveled through the steep, plunging gorges along the Yangtze and its tributaries. The ever-grey, ever-present mist hung in the air as the mountains shone through,
stacked one behind the other. I had, I suppose, always thought that washed-out watery look of Chinese landscape paintings a matter of style, a painterly way of poetizing the legendary landscape of the gorges. But, no. It turns out the Chinese painters were representing the places quite realistically: They really do look just like those mystical ancient Chinese ink paintings and are overpoweringly beautiful.

A lovely touch was the placement, in shallow coves along the way, of sampans in which folk singers or a solitary musician provided background music for the passing views. We all admired, too, the long “trail,” a steel walkway braced along the towering cliffs about a hundred feet above the water; intermittently the 40” wide path was covered with a pretty pagoda-type roof to shade the walkers as they trekked along, hugging the side of the rocks. The vegetation
sprouting from the rocks was cypress, rich and dark, very cooling to look at.
Along the way we passed small, new, villages of utterly utilitarian houses, the residences for some of the 1.13 million people relocated to build the dam. Our  local guide for the river tour was a young woman who lived in one of these villages. She told us that for her, there were pros and cons: The relocation payments had made it possible for her family to attain a much better quality of
life, but she missed being able to swim in the river and to go white water rafting. She also told us that her family was upset by being forced to take a pick axe to their own ancestral home and tear down their house with their own hands. They were paid for their labor but, to me, this seemed especially cruel since a bulldozer might have taken on the job after the residents were re-located.

On the cruise it became apparent that one reason there is so little
mechanization of agriculture in the steepness of the land which makes terracing and hand labor necessary. The Yangtze is at a record low right now and the authorities plan to lower it further in anticipation of flooding that is expected soon. The land that has surfaced is already planted with rows of corn, all of which will be flooded when the river rises. And then it will sink back
again and the farmers will go out and plant their corn crop and harvest it hastily while the land is still above water. Not a great way to feed a nation of three billion people!
Tonight our cruise ship will travel through the series of locks that will take it to the other side of the dam, a four hour process that will begin around 9:30. I have never seen this lock business and will wait up for the start; but I am told that when you’ve watched one lock being filled and emptied, you’ve seen them all. Tomorrow we will tour the dam site itself and, after lunch begin a punishing six hour bus ride—the only such one on this trip—to Hong Kong. I have
loved Tibet and the Gorges cruise because of the open spaces, fresh air, and greenery. I think HK will be Beijing on steroids and not much to my taste, so I have signed up for an optional trip to an island in the city which has a famous flower market and a bird market. One morning of “shopping” will undoubtedly be
enough for me.
All in all, I, like everyone else, feel that I absolutely had to experience China for myself and I am very happy that I have notwithstanding the unpleasantly teeming cities, the mind-numbing high-rises and the factory smog (which never bothered any of us, I’m happy to say.) This tour had a bit too much
museum trekking and talking for my tastes; I’d have preferred more time to simply experience things with all my senses instead of the relentless emphasis on seeing. But this is the nature of a tour and a tour was the only way I could hope to experience China. My only complaint is that the tour company never warned us about the Chinese bed which is sort of a board or a heap of bricks. I
was always way behind in my sleep until I got to Tibet where we had extra duvets to fold into mattress pads. Had I been warned, I’d have packed an inflatable sleeping pad and a small hand pump. So if you follow in our footsteps, do plan to bring these things along. Otherwise this has been a trip filled with aesthetic pleasures and much food for thought—not to mention much food, period.
By far, the greatest pleasure on this trip has been the people, all of them. It is more than could be hoped for to find such a socially and intellectually cohesive group. We have shared many more laughs than sufferings and formed a powerful bond as we got to know one another over almost three weeks of close living. Danny, our guide, with his humor, his political insights, his little surprise gifts—this morning he taught us all how to play Mah Jongg in one
hour—and his abundant compassion has been a paradigm of everything you could want in a tour guide. In case you haven’t guessed, I give this trip a 10.
Re: food—Jack, fully clothed and shod, stepped onto the scale in the fitness room on board and discovered that he had lost TWENTY POUNDS!!!!!

Not possible, I said.
But he claims his pants fall down if he doesn’t tighten his belt, and I have to admit that the paunch has almost disappeared. I am thinking that he should be allowed to live in sloth for eleven months each year, and then, for one month, we will give him a good dose of altitude illness combined with food poisoning, and make him climb the steps of the Potala Palace to the top; we will follow
this with a heavy dose of antibiotics for chest congestion which causes severe gastric distress—again. After completing this annual regimen, he can return to his armchair and chopped liver. Last night, to celebrate, he had a plate heaped high with mashed potatoes and then some pastries and rice pudding for dessert. I
urged everyone at our table to rush to the fitness room for their own infusions of happiness.
There is, on the other hand, the marathon runner in our group who is rail thin and eats nothing but bok choy. She also weighed herself on the fitness room scale and discovered that she had gained eight pounds! Oh, this inscrutable country!
Jack has been a real trooper and has suffered perhaps more than any on the tour except the woman from Las Vegas whose travel companion got sick at the last minute and could not accompany her on the trip. Her passport was stolen from her pocket—outside the monastery, no less. She was flown back to Chengdu to await a new passport and visa which, with the help of the American
embassy, were granted in time for her to meet up with us in Wuhan tomorrow. But she had to travel on by herself, pay first class airfare because there was only one seat left on her flight, and she had to miss the entire three-day cruise. OAT was terrific, sending guides who met her at each stop, escorted her to her hotel, and even invited her to their homes for dinner. But still……….
So this is it until departure from HK on June 2nd.

CHINA 6.1

I guess I ended the China letters too soon, without allowing that Hong Kong might have something in store for us besides shopping. But there were a few wonderful surprises after all.

Our first day featured the usual tour which, apart from a ride on a series of escalators billed as “the longest escalator in the world,” offered no more than yet another glimpse inside a Chinese temple. What religion? you ask. Well, all the Asian religions rolled into one, and then set aside to make room for the REAL Chinese religion which is superstition. Rings of incense hung on the ceiling to burn for seven days to bring good luck; counterfeit paper money was
burned to bring more good luck, a fortune telling device that works something like a bingo game indicated the days when you can expect good luck, and, for extra good luck, a few Buddhas perched here and there. Local people drift in and burn as much stuff as they can afford and then go on their way because, you know, it couldn’t hurt. Superstition has always been the true belief system of China. If only Mao had understood that, we might still have another 2500
year-old gold Buddha and the wonderful statuary and temples that were destroyed.

Our second day took us to the remarkable flower and bird market. The flower market was nothing much but the bird market was truly memorable. It seems that in China, MEN are the ones who buy and keep birds. And they keep them as one might keep a mistress: porcelain cups for water and bird seed, elegant cages of
lacquered bamboo, live crickets and meal worms….a life of luxury second only to the life of pandas in Chengdu. (I forgot to mention that the pandas, who do nothing but loaf around sucking on bamboo all day, have not been particularly good at mating; to stimulate better reproductive activity, the panda people
provide them with several hours a day of panda porno which, it turns out, actually works!!!)

Anyway, we were told that women in China cook birds and do not keep them as pets; this is strictly a male thing and so the market was filled with men looking over the birds and buying all sorts of doodads for their pets. So, of course, I left with four porcelain dishes for my own two squawkers, never to be outdone by men!!!

The morning also included a visit to a specatacularly gorgeous garden housing a nunnery. Only the pictures can do this place justice and I do promise to post them soon. A man-made lake, lily pond, waterfalls, exquisite rock formations watered by misting fountains a la Peter Walker, beautifully pruned trees and
shrubs….and the city skyscrapers rising in the background. The convent was built on the site of a squatters park where the homeless were cared for by the nuns. But, as our guide put it, American movie stars love Buddhist nuns; so the convent was built and the gardens soon followed. So did a fleet of Mercedes, also supplied by Hollywood Buddhists. Ahem.

Lunch was in a very old part of HongKong in what used to be a fishing village. We had a half hour walk through tunnels banked with stalls selling fish still swimming in their tanks; also giant clams, octopus, conch, eels, shrimp hopping around in their bins. Finally we reached out restaurant which was also a fish
market. We were treated to an all-seafood lunch, cantonese style. Mildly seasoned and delicious.

Most of the group were happy to get back for a rest in the afternoon but we pressed on because Jack had found an old synagogue listed on the city map. We took a cab to the place, built by the Sassoon family, Sephardic Jews from India who came to Hong Kong as, of course, merchants at the end of the 19th century. They purchased a lot of land along the waterfront and built Ohel Leah, named for
their mother. The place was destroyed in a war and then rebuilt as a gorgeous large building with a simple but elegant Sephardic interior. Now it sits in a low area surrounded by a wall between it and the street and further surrounded by an immense hi-rise, the bottom five floors of which are a Jewish Center. Once we had our passports checked, we were given magnetic key cards that opened all the areas of the synagogue and the Jewish Center and told to show ourselves around. We lingered over the books in the synagogue, many very recent writings by Rabbi Kook, etc. A table was already laid for a kiddush. The schoolrooms in the Jewish Center were bright and cheerful and clearly well-populated. We later found out that there are 500 member families at this synagogue, representing 17 different nationalities. We were sorry we could not be there for services. Our favorite part of the self-guided tour was the market. There are several restaurants and community rooms and a swimming pool in the Jewish Center, but
this was a real market: Bagels, lox, shmura matzo, and a freezer filled with kosher meats. We wanted to buy a fresh-baked challah to bring to our kids for Friday night dinner but doubted we could get it past customs.

Our tour finally concluded with an American style meal of gristly steak and reconstituted mashed potatoes for a “banquet” at which everyone was photographed and hugged and cooed over. We had to be ready for departure from the hotel at 5am, and so we were.

Sitting here in the HJ in San Francisco I know that my sleep is still cock-eyed and my mind is very soft and that it will take another ten days before I can clearly remember any of what we’ve experienced over the past month. but we did have shabbat with my kids last night and showed them a few photos right on the Iphone and I did manage to recall what most of the were pictures of, so the brain will heal and China will return.
All of it. In a thoroughly Chinese mist.
This really is signoff.   10-4

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FINAL POSTING OF 2011

 PLEASE NOTE: PREVIOUS POSTS FROM 2011 APPEAR AT THE END OF THIS POST, STARTING WITH “RESPONSE TO YOUR RESPONSES” AND  CONTINUING TO THE EARLIER “DOGS AND CATS, ETC. ”

FINAL POSTING FROM TEL AVIV, 2011

First an apology: I know I disappeared after the second posting. Several excuses include very productive work on the new book and a visit from an “old friend,” read “junior high school pal.” Between a vow to write for the first five hours of every day, and a certain sense of obligation to the friend, I was pressed.

No, not really. I was on the beach after five hours at the computer. After Jack departed for New York, the weather turned absolutely exquisite, leaving me to reason that writing can be done in New York and beaching can only be done in Tel Aviv. (I’m good at this kind of reasoning.) So now I’m writing this final posting from Sag Harbor, a final few thoughts from Tel Aviv that I promise are still fresh in my head.

This trip to Tel Aviv was what I’ve had in mind for my senior years for a long time now: a sojourn. As in “He went down and sojourned in Egypt.” No touring, just living in a place that is not home. It is a lot like a residency at an art colony. Small, efficient living space. No plants to water or pets to feed. No bird cages to clean. No real cooking, just snacks with big meals eaten out. I have to say, I’m entirely spoiled now and returned home thinking of selling the house.

In Tel Aviv, the pharmacist and the local grocer became familiar, almost friends. The baker around the corner got used to my unquenchable appetite for freshly-baked hamentaschen; the newspaper vendor put away the Sunday paper for me. I developed a regular daily routine at the outdoor gym—provided by the government—on the beach. (These gyms, which are placed at regular intervals along the beach and in all public parks are also to be found in Portugal—also on the beach; apparently these governments care a lot more about keeping their citizens healthy and fit than ours does. And, as well, in the American fear of law suits would prohibit even the thought of such equipment.)

I did get away for one day of touring, shared another dinner with Bob Greene and the lovely Diane, and attended a play with English subtitles at the Cameri Rep, and a dance performance at Suzanne Dellal dance center, but otherwise just stuck to the home front: the beach to my left as I exited the house, and the shopping street and synagogue—yes, I found one at last—to the right. And this is why it was possible to stay with the writing routine. We will go to China in May and do three weeks of touring; but for a completely refreshing change of scene and a very productive energy boost, sojourning is highly recommended.

 SECULAR AND RELIGIOUS IN TEL AVIV

In the last posting, “Responses to Your Responses,” I mentioned a suggestion from Susan Barnett—also a friend from junior high—who suggested that our disappointment with the congregations in Tel Aviv might be due to the fact that we were not seeking out non-Orthodox synagogues. Judy Franklin made the same sort of point when she noted that Tel Aviv is not a religious city; quite the opposite, she said.

So I set out to explore Conservative, Masoretic, Reform and whatever other kind of non-Orthodox synagogues I could find in Tel Aviv. The answer was: NOT MUCH THERE.

One Conservative, B’nei Daniel; one Reform: the place on Bograshov Street. And later, I found a brand new Modern Orthodox synagogue which proved a real find.

We attended a Saturday morning service at B’nei Daniel. A tiny house with a single room which apparently served during the week as a school; chairs were set out and an ark wheeled in for weekend services. The rabbi was from Italy and spoke only in Hebrew, but the prayer books were in English and Hebrew and the shammos called out page references in both languages. The congregants were a motley bunch but we were thrilled to see that by the time the sermon was delivered there were about fifty people—including a few children—packed in. What we did not see were any people we could identify as Holocaust survivors. Most of the older set were from the U.S. and the younger people were there mostly to say kaddish for someone. And then there were a few lunatics like the eighty year-old chick with a blonde Afro and Dior gown who threw herself on the floor as the Torah was carried past and hugged the feet of the man carrying it, proclaiming her undying love for HaShem; two weeks later I returned to witness the same performance but this time she was wearing a black leather bomber jacket, cowboy boots and dungarees with sequins on them. Tel Aviv has its share of these drama queens, I’ve discovered.

Jack and I liked the service in this little place very much. We followed the congregants out into the rear garden for a Kiddush. Before the rabbi could make his way out the back door and into the garden to bless the food, the food had all been snatched up. People stood around the table holding their plates and wineglasses, not a scrap left on the table.

“Greedy, greedy,” I muttered to Jack in my most stagey stage whisper.

Morty Shapiro, formerly of D.C., leaned over and stage-whispered in my ear: “Not greedy, just always in a hurry. Israelis are all in a hurry. They tell themselves that what they’re doing is getting their plates ready for the blessing. But really, they’re scarfing up the herring before their neighbors can reach it.”

“Yes,” I said. “Greedy.”

Morty—his name was something with an M– had been living in Tel Aviv for eleven years and had lots of analyses to offer.  “Thank heaven for the Arabs,” he said, most memorably, “because if there weren’t a threat of destruction from the Arabs, the Orthodox and the Seculars would kill one another, it’s that bad here.”

Morty explained that the reason the empty Orthodox schuls are huge elaborate buildings while the non-Orthodox synagogues are scraping by with tiny rented houses, is that the government subsidizes the Orthodox, paying for their buildings and their staff,  and gives nothing to the other branches of Judaism. Is this a throwback to the time when Ben Gurion offered various blandishments to the Orthodox in the belief that they would soon be obsolete? Morty thinks that Netanyahu is doing more than just allowing the Ben Gurion mistake to stand, he’s promoting further takeover of the government by the Orthodox 12%. Ha’aretz is filled with further testimony supporting this.

The government is also subsidizing fully the construction of various isolated communities designed to keep the Orthodox separated from the mainstream of Israeli life. How can a modern-day state not understand the destructiveness of isolating portions of itself? These are not West Bank settlements, mind you. One Orthodox village is being built along a main highway in what is clearly and indisputably Israel. The article pointed out that it was being built right on the highway in clear violation of Israel’s anti-pollution and anti-noise pollution laws. There had been no lawful process to secure exemption from these laws. The government was in such a hurry to house the Orthodox separately at government expense  that it waived its own environmental protection laws!

So what the map of Israel really looks like now is a Swiss cheese with pockets of Orthodox living separate and apart from other Israelis, and the Palestinians doing likewise. There are efforts still underway to carve out a ridiculously gerrymandered state in which the Arab pockets would become part of the new Palestinian state. But what are those totally isolated and culturally bizarre pockets of Orthodox communities going to do? Form yet another state? They refuse to abide by the nation’s laws and refuse to live among other Jews. I think we are looking, as Morty seemed to imply, at a THREE STATE SOLUTION!!!

More outrage daily in Ha’aretz about the failure of the Orthodox to contribute to the Israeli economy. These are by far the largest families in Israel but they refuse to work. The men must sit in prayer houses all day; the women, who are charged with earning a living for their families, are virtually unemployable as they refuse to work in offices where men are present, they refuse to eat in cafeterias provided by employers for their workers, or even use bathrooms used by other women. They marry right out of their secondary schools and require all sorts of accommodation for child care. They are highly intelligent and quick learners, one employer reported, but their demands make them too expensive and burdensome to the employer. So they put their enormous families on welfare. Of course, they won’t serve in the military either. Big drain on everyone and Netanyahu won’t say no.

Best news was that Amos Oz and others are forming a new political party, a Peace Party, aimed at settling the borders with Palestine; one can only hope that this party will have the courage to go with the Pashman Solution to the existential problems of Israel by denying the vote either to anyone who cannot produce a diploma from a secular institution or proof of full military service. The beauty of the Pashman Solution, you may recall, is that it would eliminate from the voting process both fundamentalist Islamists and right wingnuts of the Orthodox variety. If Israel worries about being destroyed by the rise of the Muslim Brotherhood in neighboring Egypt, I’d say, “Look again.” You are being eaten away from the inside by the Orthodox Brotherhood, same theocratic intolerance, same anti-democratic fanaticism. Israel worries that such requirements for citizenship will create a reputation as less than democratic. Nonsense. A citizenry educated in basic history, economics, politics, geography and finance is the only citizenship that can effectively manage its country. People who sit in isolation poring over religious texts are not receiving the sort of liberal education that is the backbone of democracy. WE ALL KNOW THAT!!!!

But back to the synagogue situation.

The following week, I attended Saturday morning services at the highly-touted Reform synagogue, B’nei Daniel in the posh northern neighborhood along the Hayarkon River. Morty had told me that was the most flourishing non-Orthodox synagogue in Tel Aviv, possibly in the country.

Was I there on an off day? No one welcomed me as the rabbi had at the schul on Bograshov. No one offered me an English text. (But I was happy to discover that I could find the place myself, I read enough Hebrew and knew the psalms well enough. Hooray for me.)

I was excited to see that I’d arrived for a Bar Mitzvah.

Well, no cause for excitement. An elderly woman read the entire six Torah portions. The bar mitzvah kid read his Haftarah which, in New York, would count as an accomplishment but, when you consider that Hebrew is his first language, you realize that he was just reading a little short story. His family seemed thrilled with this accomplishment, however, and stood up to applaud.

(OMG! Everyone knows that you don’t applaud in a synagogue.)

The kid then read his little speech to more applause. There were two video cameras grinding away at the rear. What, I had to wonder, was the big deal?

And I wondered as well why, if this was, somehow, a big deal, no one had bothered to get out of their pajamas for the occasion. It’s true that Israelis, like Arabs, don’t wear ties. But dungarees and shirttails hanging out at your son’s Bar Mitzvah? Jeans hanging down to the crack line at your OWN Bar Mitzvah? A rapper Bar Mitzvah????

I was no longer so much interested in prayer as in sociology. I followed the crowd to the Kiddush which was the most elegant one I’d seen in Israel: Real food set out on plates in pretty patterns, the first time I’d seen any effort at aesthetics in this pragmatic country. I raised my wine glass with the rest of them, but no one so much as nodded hello. Not the family, not the rabbi, not the cantor. And there was no Morty Shapiro to take me aside and ‘splain it all to me. I think I was the only one there who was not part of the family. This, Jack ventured to explain from New York, was probably a family that never went to schul for anything and that had rented the space for the kid to read his thing in and no one else in the congregation came on Saturdays anyway, so I was actually crashing the event.

Newly released from Hollywood: The Bar Mitzvah Crasher.

Never going back there again. No way. This is the only Reform synagogue in Tel Aviv and is, so far as I could tell, not religiously functional; it acts as more of a Jewish social center.

The junior high school friend arrived from Holland on a Friday afternoon asking about a Shabbat service. I went online to find out the time the service started at the big Orthodox place on Gordon Street, a block away. This is where I had had a dismal experience last year on the anniversary of my Bat Mitzvah which had fallen on Tu B’shvat. You can read about it in last year’s letter. But I figured she was tired and wouldn’t want to travel far, and Friday night is less than an hour-long service so why not?

And that’s when I found a big colorful announcement of a gala evening at the little synagogue two blocks away. Apparently the place had been taken over just a year ago, after Jack and I left Israel, by a new rabbi. This guy seemed to be full of energy. The ad—if you can call it that—announced a “Carlebach” evening of spiritually uplifting music and dance in celebration of the first anniversary of the new congregation; dinner to follow with a speaker who would talk about Judaism in Israel (my personal fave) and another dessert speaker who would talk about Judaism and HARRY POTTER. OK!

It turned out that this was now a Modern Orthodox schul given to spiritual uplift on steroids. It was packed to the rafters with men and women, almost all of them in their twenties and thirties. The rabbi spoke two lines of Hebrew followed by two in English all through his sermon, and pages were announced in both languages. The energy in the room was infectious. I almost could forgive the mechitzah—the lace curtain—that separated men and women at a height I found really objectionable.

After the service, the Kiddush included champagne and Danish. Then they all went downstairs for the dinner but there were no tickets left for us. We had to do without Harry Potter and have dinner at home. We wondered if the music was just for this gala evening; we wondered if the turnout was just for the special guest “Carlebach” cantor; we were sure the champagne was a gala celebration thing. But we decided to return the following Friday to see what the place was like on a normal night.

Meanwhile, I googled them, of course. Turns out the rabbi just arrived a year ago from…..WESTHAMPTON BEACH!!! And the cantor, Aaron Bensussan, is the famous composer of Sephardic liturgical music and flamenco, a well-known recording star, who was for eleven years the cantor at JACK’S SYNAGOGUE IN ROSLYN!!! Another Roslyn-Hamptons marriage. Beshaert!

I called Jack. Turns out this cantor had had some problems with the congregation in Roslyn and Jack had served as his lawyer—which got Jack into some hot water as well. They are old friends. The man is going to volunteer as part-time cantor here in Tel Aviv starting in the Spring. I wrote to the rabbi and introduced us.

I returned with my friend the following Friday night to a packed house again resounding with marvelous song, dance, the works. It was thrilling. And it turns out that champagne is the standard Friday night wine. The rabbi arranges for young women to “host” tables for dinner and for young men to be their “guests.” Matchmaking explains the throngs of young people at this place. What a guy, that rabbi. He was happy to say hello over champagne. I thanked him. I think this might be what brings Jack back to TA for a longer stay next year. But they have got to lower that mechitzah; at Westhampton Beach Jack and I were able to nudge each other from opposite sides of it.

So, Susie Barnett, that’s the story: One Conservative synagogue in TA and it’s struggling to raise enough money for a real building; one Reform place with a bunch of slobs having a Bar Mitzvah in which the kid doesn’t have to read from the Torah and no one attends on Saturday; and then the Modern Orthodox which is absolutely the swingingest place in town.

They must know they are heading for greatness, this rabbi and his cantor. They have dubbed themselves The Tel Aviv Synagogue. That’s with a capital THE.

I should add that the rabbi holds classes all week in his home: Hebrew classes taught in English, Talmud classes taught in Hebrew, Modern Judaism offered in English, etc etc. A real live response to a real live situation. Go Rabbi Ariel!

My personal response to all this is as follows: I am aware through much reading that the rabbis in the United States and throughout the west are trying to revive the practice of Judaism in what they recognize as a dire set of circumstances. Like other religions, Judaism is suffering a sense of obsolescence in the face of secularistic modernism that started building steam in the Enlightenment. But Judaism suffers as well from the loss of faith produced by the Holocaust. And finally, Judaism has suffered even more recently from archeological research revealing the real sources of the Old Testament: A bunch of human beings, not God himself, gave us the holy book.

So there are all these bagel-eating people who were, as they say, “born Jewish” who have no idea what they believe or what they should practice.

One contemporary approach to the problem is to give up on prayer and focus on study; the synagogue is supposed to serve both functions, it is argued. If people cannot find any meaning in the practice of prayer, let’s offer them…well, adult education. This is the approach now in practice in the synagogue in Sag Harbor. Rabbi Morris at that synagogue explained in an excellent essay that the process of group interpretation of sacred texts may lead people back –or, actually, forward—to what he terms a “second naivete,” a rebirth of religious faith, starting with study, a practice more acceptable to contemporary minds. The rabbi has even despaired of offering sermons, explaining that, since the sixties, people will not sit still for authoritarian lectures.

I agree with all those premises, but I think that what Rabbi Morris neglects to notice is that the sixties was also The Age Of Aquarius, the age of ecstatic music (Hendrix, Joplin, etc etc) The drug culture loves ecstasy, the sprouts-folks love ecstasy. The EX-stasy people love ecstasy. In fact, everyone who isn’t a hyper-intellectual, Western European, Ashkenazic Jew loves ecstasy. What I’m saying is that the oxygenating experience of raising one’s voice in song among a group of others is a thrilling—SPIRITUALLY UPLIFTING– experience. It is–see David Brooks’ article on sports palaces as centers of spiritual uplift– the spiritual experience du jour. So perhaps the sermonizing rabbi has to sit down for now and yield to the vocalizing cantor. This is something THE Tel Aviv Synagogue knows and that is why they are bursting their seams. Champagne, match-making and fabulous, soul-stirring music. The Age of Aquarius is the Age of Dionysus, and the salvation of a dying religion. That fellow Carlebach, devised this approach in the sixties in New York as a way to rescue drug-using Jewish kids. It is a great idea to call that zeal up again in Tel Aviv where religious observance is all but dead. The place is bulging at the seams, the music rocking the rafters. AMEN!

There are people—and you know who you are—who think this pondering about the synagogues of Israel is foolishness or worse. So for you, I must say why this is important. Israel is—and will be so long as it exists—a Jewish State. I have pondered in previous letters what this could possibly mean. I have concluded that it means that the state must be committed in some way to Jewish practices, because beliefs are not only difficult to prove or pin down, they are also on the wane for all the reasons I’ve repeated so often elsewhere.

Now this Jewish practice can take the form of government enforcement of, say, kashrut and Sabbath laws (which it does, sort of.) It can take the form of declaring Jewish holidays State holidays (and it does this too.) But there’s only so much the government can do about Jewishness and Jewish practice. The continuation of a Jewish state will also depend on what goes on in the synagogues of Israel. At this point, that means the Orthodox synagogues. But these are of two sorts: They are the old Orthodox schuls where perhaps four or five raggedy old men show up and then drag a few more in from the street to make a minyan, or they are the schul in the isolated Orthodox communities, each ruled over by its own unique charismatic wingnut. Now, the old schuls, large heavy dank buildings with no one in them, are shuttering up as quickly as their old congregations die out. This leaves the wingnut Haredi schuls and the guys with hair and black hats who will not serve in the military, who will not work side by side to be productive citizens with other Jews, who will not even tolerate living in the same neighborhood with other Jews. IS THIS WHAT THE JEWISH STATE WILL HAVE TO RELY ON FOR ITS JEWISHNESS?

I hope you doubters now see where I’ve been going with this. Rabbi Ariel’s Carlebach synagogue is the first sign I’ve seen that there is a quasi-secular movement gathering steam, a group that will preserve Jewish practice in a sane, tolerant, democratic way.  For now, all non-Orthodox congregations are forced to raise their own funds from private sources, while the near-empty synagogues and the crazy Haredi sect-schuls have the full support of the government that still believes, against all the evidence, that the only true Judaism is Orthodox Judaism (something that wasn’t even true in the Europe they all left behind sixty years ago.) I believe it is urgent that the tolerant, secularist branches of Judaism continue to grow in number and political strength. The Haredi, who would restrict migration of Jews to Israel, keep women from the Wailing Wall, obstruct domestic relations and continue to build in the West Bank, a move that will ruin Israel in the end—these people who continue to overpopulate the nation while refusing to contribute to its economy  cannot be permitted to “own” Judaism in Israel. This is what I’m all “het up” about. Okay?

 NOW THE CHRISTIANS, ON THE OTHER HAND…

I wanted more than anything to visit the North. I had been to the Lebanon border but not really seen the Galilee and the Golan Heights. But mostly, I wanted to visit Tzvat, also known as Safed, the home of Kabbalah, mystical Judaism. So this year, the only tour I was interested in was the one that goes north to these places. There is a one-day tour and a more extensive two-day tour. I signed on for the two-day excursion.

No dice. “No one goes there,” the tour people told me. “We are canceling it permanently.”

“WHY? Is it dangerous up there?”

“No, just no one goes there.”

“Okay, then we’ll do the one-day tour to fewer places. At least it still goes to Tsfat, Tsvat, Safed.”

“No, no one goes there, I told you.”

I phoned the government office of tourism and was told they are the government, not a private tour business.

“But why does no one go there?”

As a response, they sent me the public bus schedule because trains don’t run there. The bus trip is three and a half hours each way with two transfers adding more hours. Perhaps that’s why no one goes there.

I left email messages at the addresses of all the Orthodox rabbis in Tel Aviv asking for help in getting to SAFED or TSVAT or TZVAT. NO REPLY from anyone.

I emailed the director of tourism of Safed itself. They have an excellent website touting all the great touristic pleasures of their city. No response. Apparently they don’t want me among their tourists?????

I phoned the Center of Kabbalah in Tel Aviv, People who live in Safed believe that when the Messiah returns, he will walk down the main street of their city on His way to Jerusalem. There are old synagogues and study houses all over, and the graves of many Kabbalist rabbis. Rabbi Luria, himself, lived and worked here. One rabbi fled the city because, he claimed, the noise of the angels kept him awake at night. Also, Ruth Joseph bought a gorgeous linen tallis on a tour of Tsfat in their highly-praised art colony; she had given me the exact address of the artist who made it. I had to have one just like it.

On the answering machine of the Kabbalah Center, I left a pleading message.

Also, no response.

Well, this is very mystical, I suppose.

Friend Emily Kutash, a winner of the Guess the Reason for the Banner contest, suggested I phone the man who had escorted her and a friend on a private tour that included the North and Tsvat. I did. Oded. Nice guy. We arranged everything but the date. Then he told me that his daughter was a week overdue and that until she delivered her baby, their car would have to stay at the kibbutz where they lived. When she comes home, I’ll be able to let you know a date. Oh dear, Oded! Jack will be gone by then.

(Later, I learned from my friend’s neice who lives in the North, that it is true: NO ONE goes to Tzvat. Why? Because no one wants to mess with the highly Orthodox who live there, and they –their website notwithstanding—don’t welcome people from the outside.)

The solution, which was not a solution at all, was to tour the north on “The Christian Tour.” Well, yes, there are lots of church groups that come to Israel to see their sites/sights. Nazareth, Jesus’ childhood city, The Church of the Annunciation where he was er, um, conceived, the site of the Loaves and Fishes miracle, Peter’s mother-in-law’s house where Jesus hung out and preached at the local synagogue, and the spot along the Jordan River where John baptized Jesus. No Tsvat.

But at least I got to see vast expanses of the Golan and the Galilee and this is where the wonderful Daniel Grossman book we are reading for my book group is set. Reading the book on the TA beach and then riding through the country where it takes place, that was worth a day.

From the Christian Tour of the Galilee-fertile valleys and mountains surround the Sea of Galilee in the north of Israel.

Nazareth is a filthy, mostly-Arab, city where we visited a junky tchotchtke shop and nothing else because there is nothing there from the time of Jesus. But I guess being there was enough for others on the tour. On the way out of the city, the guide pointed out a new apartment complex which, he told us, is designed to house Jews. Oh, one of those. So where are the Jews of Nazareth? Oh, they will be moved here when the buildings are finished.

Don’t tell me, let me guess. There are enough apartments to bring enough Jews into Nazareth to outnumber the Arab population there so the district votes Jewish in the next election. Political architecture. This is not the West Bank, you know.

The Church of the Annunciation is was built in 1969 or some such. Under the building is a limestone cave. It’s supposed to be either where Mary got pregnant—ooops—or where she announced that she was pregnant, that braggart! But it’s mostly a limestone cave under glass. What I found curious is that no Christian organization saw fit to preserve or even mark this spot until the foundation of the State of Israel. Apparently, they trusted the Palestinians who were there to preserve it and they don’t trust the Jews. Whatever. The Pope was asked for money to build the church after the second war and he refused, saying he needed his money to care for war orphans. This is itself quite laudable; I think it also serves to demonstrate that there might have been considerable DOUBT on the part of the papacy as to the authenticity of the limestone. Or maybe il Pape was embarrassed by what took place on that slab.

In the cellar, we were told, were the remains of the synagogue that stood on this site. (Or maybe the synagogue was in Nazareth, I forget. In any case, it’s another case of one religion building its house on the ruins of the preceding religion instead of more politely NEXT to it.) But what remained of the synagogue, the guide told us, was the ritual bath, the mikveh. Ah, yes, that is the great tourist attraction at our schul in Sag Harbor as well.

Now here’s where it got hairy: The guide wanted us to know that “ Jews did not take the bath to clean their bodies; they took it to clean their souls.”

Bullshit! As I explained to the French Catholic fellow who was touring with me, the mikveh was for use by women at the end of their menstrual periods before they could re-enter their husband’s beds. It was also used for bathing prior to the marriage ceremony. How dare this guide man imply that Jews had any dirt in their souls? It was the female body that needed cleaning. Of course.

On to the site of the loaves and the fishes. Another church built way after the fact—1982—to mark the site where four loaves and two fish were enough to feed 5000 people. They had the very table on which the act was performed. They had a mosaic portrait of the very loaves and fishes involved. But they did not have the very laser that was used to cut the food up into such tiny pieces. A shame.

The nearby synagogue was the best-preserved monument on this tour. The very informative guide informed us that Jews do not allow food in the house of prayer and so there had to be another room for the weddings. More bullshit. The second room is for STUDY!  Also, probably some weddings. The Christians on the tour didn’t seem to care. The columns supporting the structure had engraved on them a couple of names, some in Greek, some in Latin. Names of donors, the guide pointed out. Ah, yes, this was before the government of Netanyahu gave government monies to support Orthodox synagogues. No wonder it was mostly toppled by an earthquake, center of earthly vanities that it was!

Finally, the river Jordan. Now, everyone knows some song or other about crossing over this river. And Jews know that the crossing was the final chapter, the reaching of the promised land. So you expect a wide river, something the crossing of which would be somehow momentous. It is wide at some points, I suppose, but this spot where they tell you John baptized Jesus is a trickle. You can leap across in one bound. They rent you a white robe and a shower cap so you can go down into the water and get dunked by the minister who is traveling with you from Missouri or Georgia. The day we were there, there were several busloads of Koreans. They had different colored baseball caps to distinguish one tour from another. They went down to the river and sang hymns. Then they got dunked.

We were told that we, who had no cleric with us to dunk us, could step into the water if we wanted to. But the water was churning with humongous catfish and a nutria that kept climbing out of the water and nipping at people’s ankles. Few of the Christians on my tour—not the one lonely Jew—wanted to step in among the big whiskered fish. The Koreans didn’t mind. They eat whole cats, after all.

A good Christian time was had by all and we returned home no more or less persuaded than when we had started out. I must say, however, that the lack of interest the Vatican and other Christian agencies have shown in preserving their most holy sites astonishes me. Until Israel’s founding, none of these sites had been given any care whatsoever. The Franciscans, it seems, stepped in at that point and put up churches over the sites. I wish someone would explain to me why these churches weren’t a lot older than that. Wouldn’t the British, at least, have permitted the rescue and enclosure of sacred Christian sites? Please write your explanation in the reply box on this posting.

 IF I FORGET THEE, O JERUSALEM: OF SQUARES, HAIR,  AND EYES

 Although we had traveled to the new city of Jerusalem before my last posting, I held off writing about it and promised to do so in this, the next posting. What can I say? Last year, we toured the Old City and I decided it would have to be evacuated of residents because it was clearly an archeological site and a museum of world treasures. The lives of the residents—if you can call them that—amount to nothing more than the political placement of bodies on the line; people trying to raise children inside the gates of the Old City should be arrested for child abuse.

Jack and I had promised ourselves never to return there, but we were offered an opportunity to view some interesting Spinoza archive so we went because it was in the Hebrew Union College library, outside the gates of the Old City.

When our bus from Tel Aviv entered the Jeru bus station we had to line up and be searched just to enter the NEW city; Jack announced that he was ready to return home on the next bus out. Why? The chaos, the dirt, the general disarray of everything. It was, we agreed, mighty unpleasant, this new city in the hills surrounding the old one.

We all know the pleasures of strolling through Paris and Washington D.C., the broad, tree-lined avenues, the boulevards that lift the face and eyes toward the sky. The human body feels assured and serene in a well-designed city because the body is bilaterally symmetrical and seeks a mirror of its own form in its environment. The Romans knew this: When they built the Forum Romana, they hewed to a central axis and built one rectangle after another, creating a sense of order which bespeaks both power and peace. Later Romans had some difficulty maintaining these principles of urban design because Rome, as you will remember is built on seven hills. Hills and the valleys between them don’t allow for a lot of rectilinearity. But Rome, which has always struck me as unpleasantly disordered and tangled, is a dream of Euclidean peace compared with Jerusalem where the hill situation is also a problem.

Why is Jeru worse, even, than Rome? Because the Israelis care nothing for aesthetics. They are, as old Morty put it, always in a hurry. Here they are in a hurry to warehouse people. Anyone who has the money to build buildings, can do so. Always red terra cotta buildings, faced to chip and peel within the decade. But no matter, get those folks in there, let the population climb. Create more apartments and move in more Jews. Keep them coming until we outnumber the Arabs who do their outnumbering the old-fashioned way. And so New Jeru is a tangle of crowded hills of redundant housing complexes; on roads that snake around the hills and into the valleys you never can tell where you are. Not the sort of thing to create a sense of balance, order, and peace. Well, at least the architecture doesn’t lie!

Jack is uncomfortable with the disarray. For me, it’s more about HAIR. You cannot stand on a street corner in Jerusalem and not be pre-occupied with hair. All its citizens are consumed with hair. In Tel Aviv, there are three hairdressers on every block; in Jerusalem, there is perpetual, omnipresent hair and it certainly isn’t dressed.

Orthodox Jewish women cover their heads with snoods or with headscarves that are knotted  at the nape of the neck (to distinguish them from Muslim women who knot their headscarves under the chin. ) Why do these women all cover their hair? It is to keep their menfolk from impure thoughts, of course.

Yes, well you see, these menfolk apparently once caught sight of their mothers in the altogether and noticed a bush of hair, um, down there. Having no anatomy courses or sex ed courses, and having no actual experience of what, in fact, was down there, they concluded that the female genitalia were, well, a big bush of hair. They wondered where the actual, you know, thing, was; it was missing, apparently.

Now, when these menfolk, both Jewish and Muslim, see a head of female hair, they become horribly anxious. First of all, there’s the anxiety of recalling that they saw their mother in the altogether; secondly, there’s the Oedipal fear of castration. Heaps of distracting anxiety.

But Orthodox Jewish men are committed to thinking of nothing all day but the glories of Ha Shem. They must not be distracted from praising God at every moment, 24/7. Their women must assist in this by making sure that the men never see a head of female hair which will surely result in overwhelming distraction by a flood of impure thoughts. (At home, the woman may remove her hair covering, of course. But at home, should her husband be overwhelmed with impure thoughts, he can throw her down on the spot and have his way with her—and then get back immediately to glorifying Ha Shem.)

Now what of the Orthodox Jewish woman? Well, in new Jerusalem, these women carry prayer books wherever they go. This way, if they have to wait for the bus, or wait at a red light, or wait on the bus for their stop, they can pull out the prayer book and read it incessantly. This keeps them from looking at passing buses and other traffic, and from watching as the light changes—all of which would give them impure thoughts. This they must do in addition to the washing and ironing for their fourteen children, the marketing and cooking and tutoring and cleaning and bathing. This they must do while they, alone in the family, go out to work every day to try to support the family. What a lot of work these women do, all the while reading their prayers to keep away impure thoughts. Hats off to the Orthodox women– er, snoods off!

But while the women keep their hair neatly tucked out of sight where it cannot arouse impure thoughts, the men are doing everything they can to arouse impure thoughts in women. They grow their hair in humongous bushes—out of their temples in long, enticing curls, out from under their nostrils in seductive shrubby mustaches, down from their chins so it flows past their collars onto their shirtfronts, their vests, their long coats. There is so much male hair around on the streets of Jerusalem that I found myself having enough impure thoughts to cause me to spoil the chicken soup and overcook the matzoh balls!  I had to flee this new city quickly because of all the pre-occupation with hair. I found I could think of nothing but hair: Women’s hair, men’s hair, everywhere!

And then there are the eyes. The eyes of Jerusalem strike terror into the soul.

We are waiting for the number 25 bus to King David Street. There are at least forty buses that stop here; it’s a long wait for the 25. Women in snoods lean on the bus station, their eyes modestly cast down at their prayer books. Hairy men fiddle with their fringes lest they forget to keep their minds on Ha Shem. On the curb in front of us, a small dark man—apparently Palestinian—is sitting with his son. The man is about 35, the boy about 6. They must be Arabs; no Jew would sit on the curb with his feet in the roadbed. Finally, a bus approaches that the man recognizes as his. He yanks the boy up abruptly and shoves past the line of people waiting for the bus as they cluster at the stop sign, preparing to board. He is first at the door when the door opens and he bounds into the bus, dragging his son behind him. An older woman whom he’s brushed aside reaches up and taps him on the shoulder.

He whirls around to confront her. We on the sidewalk are riveted by his eyes. They are blazing with insult and rage. People trying to get off the bus jostle the man who has blocked their way, and with one arm he pushes them back, his fierce eyes still fixed on the woman who has had the temerity to tap his shoulder. We who are still watching are transfixed. We know what will happen next. He will lift a hand and strike her. The bus driver will get out of his seat and wrestle the man to the floor of the bus. The man will reach into his shoe and draw out a knife. There will be blood all over the floor of the bus and people will shriek.

In a few seconds, it is all over. The man has stared at us long enough to strike terror into the hearts of everyone poised on the curb with the bold older woman. He turns and pulls his child to the rear of the bus. We exhale and life on the street resumes.

There are eyes like that man’s eyes all over Jerusalem. They peer out from under headscarves and from between curly forelocks and from beneath snoods. They are the eyes that are burning from too many repressed impure thoughts. They sear the air of new Jerusalem where even the shapes of the streets refuse to allow you any peace.

Jack and I returned to Tel Aviv and went immediately to the beach. To cool off. To bathe our eyes. To revert to all our impure thoughts.

The Sea of Impure Thoughts

 (P.S. The niece who explained Tzvat to me has lived in Israel all her life. She says she and her entire extended family stopped going to Jerusalem twenty years ago. The eyes, the hair, the chaos….)

TO LEARN OR NOT TO LEARN HEBREW

I had asked around everywhere—including, of course, via google—before we left because I had dreamed that three days a week or so I’d attend a class in modern spoken Hebrew. Rabbi Zimmerman at East Hampton’s Jewish Center had put me in touch with someone in TA who put me in touch with The Gordon Ulpan. I was set, I thought.

But the Gordon Ulpan does not have a functioning website. I had to wait until we arrived. NO problem, they are three blocks away from our apartment. I imagined strolling down Gordon Street to Ben Gurion Street three mornings a week.

Well, no. I would have had to begin with the beginners and they begin in March. I had to forsake all plans of learning spoken Hebrew whilst in Israel. I had googled myself silly and knew better than to try again.

But, of course, everyone speaks English and not only that: Everyone is insulted if you so much as ask if they do. “OF COURSE!” they say.

Some restaurant people sniffed me out immediately and gave me an English menu, but most of the time I had to say, “English please.” After a while, I realized that I liked this situation more than I would have liked speaking Hebrew. I realized that I loved hearing the sound of Hebrew as they addressed me and asked a barrage of questions I couldn’t understand: Are you ready to order? Are you happy with the meal? Are you  interested in dessert? Would you like a taxi? A sheroot? Some help with your luggage? A seat in the orchestra or the balcony?

Then I would just have to say “English, please,” and they’d immediately say the whole thing over in English. It was like having a city—and entire country, really—full of little robots that could respond to voice commands.  Perfect little devices made by Steve Jobs. Looks like a person, moves like a person. At your command, it translates from Hebrew to English. Perfectly, every time. I took so much pleasure in using the “English, please” button that I decided not to learn spoken Hebrew. Next year, I will attend Rabbi Ariel’s Hebrew classes and improve my Bible-reading skills.

 DEPARTURE—IT’S HARD TO LEAVE ISRAEL

This was a terrific sojourn with lots accomplished and much learned. But I wish the departure had been equal to the stay. What I have to say is that I advise everyone to AVOID BRITISH AIRWAYS.

This company refuses to let you book your seats at the time you book your ticket . Unless you pay a high premium—which we won’t—you have to go online exactly 24 hours before the flight is scheduled to depart and race for a seat. So you sit at your computer for a half hour counting down the minutes. If you have a two-leg trip, as I did, it gets very hairy as you are likely to be airborne when the 24 hour window opens for the second half of your flight. Too bad, they say when you call to inquire.

So I readied myself for the seat race. No dice. The website did not function. I tried for three hours, sure it would be repaired at any moment and the aggressive Israelis would beat me out for an aisle seat. Eventually, I phoned BA in Tel Aviv Closed for the night. I phoned Jack and asked him to get in touch with the NY office because my Skype calls to NYC kept getting cut off just as I was coming to the end of my 20 minute waiting time. Jack eventually found a woman who agreed to book me by phone even though she wasn’t supposed to do that once the 24 hour window opened—even though this one didn’t open.

I was nervous the next morning because I hadn’t received an email confirm of the seat booking. The website was still down. I phoned the airport and got a woman WITH ATTITUDE! So what can I do, it’s technology, it fails. You’re worried? So you’re worried. What do you want from me? You want me to let you finish? Why should I let you finish? I know what you’re going to say. You say I’m rude? So I’m rude, what are you? You’re going to report me to BA? Ha ha ha. That’s so funny I can’t stop laughing.

So I reported her. Ha ha ha.

That ordeal done with, I walked to the port to buy extra homemade halvah to take home to Jack. Sugar-free. Before leaving the apartment, I did a very orderly check. Bags all packed and ready to go. Fridge emptied, old food thrown away. Then I set the table with the few bits of food I’d saved for my final meal in Israel: A glass of v-8. I was pleased to see that there was just enough to fill the glass to the top. What  genius! And three hard-boiled eggs which made a nice egg white salad. Also a lettuce and tomato salad. There was one remaining slice of bread with no mold on it. I slipped it into the toaster, ready to be toasted when I returned. All was set and I took a lovely walk along the beach to the port and back, happy to see the sun after a downpour all morning and very hungry for my perfectly engineered lunch.

I opened the door to the apartment and found all the furniture in disarray. A man I took to be Yemeni was pushing a broom around.

“Umm, I’m still in residence, as you can see,” I explained. “You are not permitted to enter until I’ve checked out, right?”

No English.

Hand signals demonstrating the still-open luggage, the clothes still not completely packed. “OUT!” I said.

He obediently left, taking a full garbage bag with him.

Then I went into the kitchen-diningroom-livingroom. NO FOOD OR DISHES ON THE TABLE! Even the one piece of bread had been removed from the toaster. GONE! I went to the door, opened it a crack, and began screaming. Where is my lunch?

He points to the garbage bag.

Where is my V-8?

He points to the sink where the red traces are evident.

You idiot! I remember Morty and his remark that Israelis are always in a hurry.

I email Eli the broker who answers immediately. “I want your cleaning guy to go downstairs and buy me some lunch. I’ve spent my very last shekels at the port because I am so well-organized and efficient.

I hear the cleaner in the hall talking on his cell phone, and then Eli writes back. The guy is an Indian and doesn’t speak Hebrew either. Eli is very sorry he’s hired an idiot.

Not a good day so far.

On to the airport where, for $25 American, I manage to procure a salad and some juice.

Now I am in the plane. One hour into the flight everyone at the windows has pulled down the shades and is either watching a movie or drooling in his sleep. But I want to finish reading the book about the walk through the Golan. I turn on the overhead light. Or I try. The light is out. I call the flight attendant. She can’t get it on either and offers me another seat. No light there either. Soon we discover that there are no lights in the plane at all. Not even in first class. Not in second class or in all the other classes the British are so good at creating. There are no lights.

You have an electrical short in the plane’s system, I inform her.

Well, I wouldn’t know because I’m not an engineer.

I can see that. Where is the engineer?

We don’t carry one on board.

No, I mean the technically savvy person who will fix things that go wrong during the flight. The techie guy.

I’m afraid we don’t have one of those on the plane either.

YOU DON”T? HUH? What if the engine stops? What if the air supply is cut? What if you lose altitude????????????

I’m sorry, I can find you a vacant window seat and you can read in the light of the sun.

So, umm, you don’t have any savvy tech person on the ground, something I know since your website that permits online seat selection has been down now for 48 hours as confirmed by my husband. That’s a long time for a company that has contractually agreed to give online seat selection to anyone who purchases a ticket. And now you also have no tech-savvy people in the air. So, in brief, you have no tech support anywhere at all. Is that true?

Um, would you like some tea?

And then there is the hotel in London, just three minutes from Heathrow where I stayed overnight. On its website it says it is on Bath Road, three minutes from Heathrow. My friend, Anita, has been worried ever since she offered to pick me up because she cannot find it anywhere on any map of London. There is no numerical address on Bath Road listed anywhere and there is also NO PHONE NUMBER for this hotel. She picks me up with a Garmin in the car but we can’t enter the address properly because, well, you know….

So we drive back and forth on the Bath Road for an hour. Finally we get off the road onto a slip road and wind our way through a tiny hamlet replete with half-timbered pubs, and there is the hotel.

Anita screams at the clerk behind the desk who admits that, yes, unfortunately, we do not have an address or a phone number, and, yes, sorry, but it really isn’t Bath Road, it’s the road off the Bath slip road which has no name, you see.

And I was upset that there were no techies at the airline!

Jack knew just what I needed when I finally landed. We went for sushi at Mount Fuji and all cares vanished.

 WHY ARE THERE SO FEW PHOTOS IN THIS POSTING?

Jack took the camera home with him as it is part of his Iphone which he needed on his flight back so he could spend the entire thirteen hours playing solitaire.

The nice man I met on the Christian Tour, Roger, agreed to send along some of his photos. Many were too dense or large to crunch into the blog. but the lovely scene in the Galilee comes courtesy of him. Thank you, Roger.

And that’s it, folks. Another five weeks in glorious Tel Aviv with a few diversions tossed in. Good to be back home with Rachel Maddow, Law and Order,  and good sushi.

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RESPONDING TO YOUR RESPONSES, LETTER #3

 

The Banner Explanation Contest Produces Two Winners!

 The contest to see who could best explain my choice of the two shrunken heads as a banner for the website ended on February 14th. It is difficult to choose between the two best entries so here they both are. Both contestants will receive an autographed portrait of Spinoza-suitable for framing- when I return home.

Paul Glickman and I have known each other for over half a century so he can probably tell quite well what’s on my mind. He decided that the banner indicated the narrowing of human perspective as a result of increased specialization and media blitz, the diminished ability of people to see the larger picture. This is pretty much What I Was Thinking. Congratulations, Paul. (I should say, here, that Paul is raking in kudos weekly for his animated short film, El Salon Mexico, which sets a charming story and drawings to the music by Copland. I’m getting a bit weary of having to congratulate him, often more than once a week.)

Another best in show came from Emilie Kutash and bears the mark of her many decades as a psychotherapist with a huge and very wise sense of humor about her patients. She said the two figures in the photo represent two people who have spent years in therapy. With all their craziness finally resolved, or transferred to the therapist–their heads are completely shrunk and they feel very light and small headed. Not what I was thinking, but a great interpretation, I thought.

Paul and Emilie will receive the promised autographed portraits in mid-March.

Spinoza. In the prize portrait, the head will be fully visible.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Responding To Your Wonderfully Thought-provoking Replies

 The responses to my last posting have been thrilling to read. So many readers have tried to engage me in further pondering of the two intertwined questions: What is the justification for Israel? and What is a Jew? The responses are so thought-provoking that I’ve been unable to sleep for having to pursue my muddled thinking further. I’ve decided to share some of these responses with you all because they add immeasurably to the conversation and will surely stir even more, which would be wonderful.

Jack’s daughter, Loren, kept me up at night when she wrote:

“Regarding your feelings about blood/birth/racialism/tribalism, while I can
understand how you feel, I have to disagree with you as far as it applies to
Israel.  If, historically, Jews were persecuted for the mere fact of their
birth, without regard to their level of participation in religious activities,
then is makes sense for Israel to welcome all who identify themselves as Jews,
no matter the source of that self-definition.  If Israel is going to be a true
sanctuary, then it can’t discriminate.”

This is a very important point. Israel was not formed because Jews wanted to be isolated together, but because others persecuted Jews on the basis of tribe or race.

My problem is that if Israel is a land for those persecuted elsewhere AND if we don’t answer, independently, the question of what a Jew is, then we will have to open Israeli citizenship to anyone who is persecuted in his native land, say Ugandan homosexuals.

The deeper and more ancient problem is that Jewish tribalism is intrinsic to Jewish identity because of what is now recognized as a myth: The Ten Commandments, says the myth, was given to a specific tribe that was designated as the people chosen by God. With this myth deconstructed—as it has been—we are left with the Ten Commandments and no set of people to whom they were specifically entrusted. Jewish exceptionalism based on this myth is often thought to be at the root of the anti-Semitism that eventually required the foundation of the State of Israel. With Jews increasingly skeptical about that myth, and so increasingly skeptical about their membership in a chosen tribe, the tribal basis for Israel begins to melt down.

HOWEVER: What was really keeping me awake after reading Loren’s letter was the realization that  intertwining the two big questions was causing more problems than I could handle, that I had to separate them and here’s why:

The reason for the foundation of Israel is embedded in history. The original reason will hopefully become obsolete as the world –oh, ho ho—begins to behave itself. And as more and more Jews discard the exceptionalist myth and open their ranks to more and more converts and intermarriages, Judaism will become more of a world religion than a obsolescent tribe and so—oh, ho ho—anti-Semitism will eventually melt down. But for now, we live with a factual historical reality about the reason for Israel.

The question of What is a Jew? on the other hand, is a live question, a philosophical question, and one we are free to answer as our intellectual imaginations work it out. (Which is why I love Philosophy and eschew History: much more room for imagination which, I feel, is the essence of human freedom.) The question of Jewish Identity is one that is being explored with enormous ferocity these days as rabbis scurry to find a theology to replace the deconstructed myths of “Jewish history” with , not beliefs, but practices that can become meaningful in Jewish life. As they explore reviving practices such as sabbath observance and prayer to re-cast these in ways that will be pertinent to contemporary experience, they come more and more to a set of practices that are meaningful to all sorts of people, not just to “born” Jews. And so the tent expands of its own necessity.  Uplifting song and dance, for example, appeal to many, even if their sources are Israeli; hermeneutical parsing of ancient texts is an intellectual exercise that also transcends “birth religion” in its appeal. In time, a Jew will be identified as someone who appreciates and so  “OWNS,” of his own free choice, a set of prayer practices and intellectual investigations that are promulgated by Jewish leaders. This is the direction that the new generation of rabbis is moving in: a freely chosen Jewish identity based on what meets your spiritual and intellectual yearnings.

Now this is a future to be looked forward to, and hailed, I believe. Hegel spoke, rightly, of the evolution of human Spirit toward ever increasing FREEDOM, which he rightly identified as an ever-deepening self-awareness, an ever-building sense of human possibility, responsibility and imagination. The dialectic in this direction is, Hegel believed (again, rightly) inevitable. As we progress in building on what we know, we move more and more toward an understanding of ourselves and so more and more toward liberation from superstition and myth, both of which enslave us; we move toward what Spinoza called Blessedness.

Practices dictated by others—whether they are political dictators or The Church or the rabbis—eventually must yield to a set of practices one chooses for oneself. This does not, however, spell the end of religious institutions or the end of the profession of the clerics. The clergy is now charged with developing a set of practices that speak to the current needs of their people. There will always be a need for a set of shared beliefs and shared practices because the need for community remains as Spirit evolves. We do not become free by becoming more selfish and isolated from one another, but by becoming more connected spiritually and intellectually in meaningful ways, by a shared set of meanings which the rabbis—and other clerics—are charged with articulating and formulating.

This time of ferment within Judaism and other religions is as exciting as the political ferment around the world. It bespeaks questioning, and the awareness of autonomy that makes questioning of authority possible. It presages a time, not of anarchy, but a time when a new set of principles will gain legitimate authority, replacing practices and belief systems whose authority has obsolesced.

So the answer to the question What is a Jew? is evolving and this is wonderful. As it evolves, the justification for the state of Israel will, of necessity, change as well.

As we, the world, the human Spirit, evolve toward increasing self-awareness and freedom, we increasingly reject determinism such as that imposed by conditions of birth. People will increasingly reject labels that they are born with, and funderstand that meaningful spiritual commitment comes from choice, not tribal practice imposed from without, and certainly not by BLOOD. If an Egyptian can speak his mind in the streets of Cairo, if a Black can be elected President of the US, if a woman can attain the highest political office in Germany, then each of us can choose, apart from conditions of birth, what and who we are.

And this is especially good news for the world’s religions. It means that their members will be people who really want to participate in religious practice, not people accustomed to various unreflected habit.

Loren wrote further: “Moreover, who would decide how Jewish is Jewish enough (for Israeli citizenship)?  Where is the line drawn?  Would the definition change depending on who’s in power?  There will almost always be a group/sect/congregation who thinks you (the general “you,”not the Susan “you”) aren’t sufficiently observant for their tastes.”

My response is that the answer depends on what Israel decides it is. Is it a state of people who self-identify as Jews? Or is it a state existing for the purpose of providing refuge to the persecuted (of any state or religion?) But tribal identities will fall away. There will be battles fought over this as many people always fear change. But freedom always expands and so it wins out. Inevitably.

Finally, this from Loren: “I had a very opposite experience this weekend.  I was invited to attend a friend’s bat mitzvah at our temple.  This friend converted to Judaism long ago,
and in the couple of years between her daughter’s bat mitzvah and her son’s
(which will be around the same time as Liam’s), decided it was time that she
became a bat mitzvah.  There was a group of 16 men and women being bar/bat
mitzvahed at the temple this weekend and their stories were compelling.  Some,
like Carol, were converts.  Some had been raised Jewish but opted not to do this
when they were younger.  A couple were women who’d been raised in the
Conservative tradition who were not allowed to do it when they were the
traditional age.  One husband and wife decided to study together, as an example
to their children.  All of them were there because they chose do this, because
they were celebrating and affirming their Jewishness.  As you can imagine, the
sanctuary was packed.  The overflow rooms were packed.  The whole service was
really moving and beautiful.”

And I replied: WHAT A LOVELY IMAGE! I THINK THIS IS WHERE JUDAISM SHOULD BE HEADING ===AND PROBABLY IS. A RELIGION, RATHER THAN A TRIBE, MAKES SO MUCH MORE MODERN SENSE TO ME, AND YOUR FRIENDS AT THIS EVENT HAVE ALL CHOSEN THEIR JUDAISM.

She concludes:”I hope you learn some fabulous dances and get my father to dance, too!” Agreed!

Paul Glickman, the banner contest winner, wrote as well of so many people in his milieu, not Jews by birth but by choice, who come from a rich variety of backgrounds, drawn to the loveliness of Jewish ritual and song, and of Jewish historical accounts, even though they cannot take those accounts literally.

Rabbi Morris of Temple Adas Israel authored an essay I highly recommend. It applies Paul Ricoeur’s notion of “second naivete” to Jewish re-assessment. We cannot, of course, bring to Jewish belief or practice any of the old myths. With the discovery that the Torah was written by a group of human beings working over time, that it was not God-given, much of the support of old Jewish practice falls away. But people, Morris argues, still have a yearning for spiritual connection. We are able, he decides, to transcend our loss of empirical belief and find a “second naivete” to replace the empirically-driven skepticism of the Enlightenment and of recent archeological and anthropological discoveries. Having found that second naivete in myself, I know he is correct. At this level of conscious evolution, religious practice is something chosen for the richness it can give to life, for the dimension it supplies that, as Morris puts it, is “yearned for.”

Judy Franklin is the woman we met at the Kiddush at the grand old synagogue in Nice. She and her husband live in Philadelphia where they teach in local universities. They know far more about Jewish Studies than I, and Judy responded with  information addressing my disappointments with the synagogue services here in Tel Aviv.

She wrote: “Religion and Tel Aviv are not usually connected in one’s mind; in fact, T.A. is generally thought of as, possibly, one of the least outwardly religious of the big cities.  This is because if a family wants to have a religious existence, it will live in Jerusalem or its environs, or the family will live in a religious town or conglomerate…of which there are soooo many.  The big cities have shteibles (shteibelach) within the city…a small shul where a particular group who all know each other, or who are even all related to each other will pray.  In fact, the big synagogues may be only for show…for visitors or others to see and investigate —for ornaments, torah scrolls, etc.   For instance, on the Carmel, we have 3-4 synagogues.  But, groups of friends, etc. may get together on a Shabbat morning at a small beit midrash in the large shul —a study room where they can pray loudly, softly, or otherwise. 
 
     Did you realize that on a Shabbat morning, the service is over by about 9:30-10:00 a.m.?  If you arrived after that, everyone would have probably left already.  Another thought that crossed my mind as I read your words last night is that in America, we have so many Jews.  But how many of them attend services on Shabbat?  Very few.  Yet, they still consider themselves “Jews”; should we really expect it to be any different in Israel?  Israelis have come to Israel for so many reasons, but mainly for the freedom to live with other Jews, just as Jews do here.  If they are survivors of the Holocaust, how can we judge how they express their Judaism?  Isn’t it sufficient that they identify as Jews and live in the Jewish State?  I, too, would like to see more Jews expressing their Judaism formally…in the synagogue… but I know it is not going to happen…there or here.   At least this does not apply to my shul here in Bala Cynwyd.  It is amazing how the membership keeps climbing…and they are all young couples with growing families. ”

First of all, thank you, Judy. We saw each other for just a few hours a few years ago but the connection continues, for which I am grateful.

The question of small minyanim, private groups formed outside of synagogues, is an increasingly significant problem for organized Judaism. As a writer to the Forward pointed out last week, the people who join these groups tend to be the most knowledgeable and most devoted and so create for organized synagogues a drain of enthusiasm and understanding. The problem for rabbis is to retain these people who have found a meaningful way to worship and to integrate them back into the fold, not let them pursue their religious practices in tiny outsider groups. I know that this is happening all over Israel in the small towns, as Judy points out. Clerics should be asking themselves why and adjusting their practices accordingly. On the other hand, much of Israel is small town; just as in England and rural Europe, each small town has its one and only parish. The worry for me in Israel, however, is that any far-out group with a charismatic leader who can raise some outside money, can find himself a place in the desert and build himself a little “theocracy” isolated from the rest of the country, a little schul for his own practitioners. This fractionalization will ultimately harm Israel in many obvious ways.

Tel Aviv honors Jewish military, political and INTELLECTUAL leaders. YAY!

The question of Tel Aviv, is another issue. Tel Aviv was founded by Zionists, most of whom had an idealistic vision based on Laborite Socialism. The Bauhaus area is a living artistic testament to their faith in science and technology as intellectual replacements for worn-out religious beliefs and practices. These founders believed that Israel itself would be one huge communal synagogue, a congregation of Jews living and working under a single tent. (Oh, the dream!) To these people, the idea of synagogues in Israel was therefore redundant, a “club within a club,” as they put it. It was not only unnecessary, but dangerous to fractionalize the population in this way. So it wasn’t an opposition to religion but the idea that the one true religion, the religion of Socialist ethics, would be practiced under  the single tent of the Israeli state. (Oy, the dream!)

Well, that was then. In fact, synagogues sprang up all over Tel Aviv. Most of them were Orthodox and they are dying out as the Orthodox who first came to TLV die out. And as Judy says, the Orthodox are in specific little communities throughout the country, each with its own beliefs, customs and dress. AND they are in Jerusalem (about which a lot more in the next letter. Suffice it now merely to say that we went to OLD Jeru last year and swore we’d never return. Yesterday we visited NEW Jeru. Before the bus had even reached the main terminal, Jack had had enough and said he’d be happy to return to TLV on the next bus out. We agreed, never again. Jerusalem , both old and new, makes our skin crawl. We rushed to the beach as soon as got back home to let the lapping water, the surfers and wind-surfers, the dogs and guys flying in their whirligigs wash the Jeru experience away. Never again will I go to any part of Jeru, sorry folks.)

Another great response to the last letter came from Susan Barnett who inquired if we’d looked for the Reform or Conservative synagogues in Tel Aviv. She was hoping we’d find them perhaps better populated. Last night’s research turned up very few—three–that actually hold services on Saturdays. One is of particular interest because it appears to be a branch of BJ in NYC that is attempting a second naivete approach. They are young families, from the States mostly,  who want to find a meaningful mode of practice . They want to integrate Israeli music and art into their services to give them authentic Israeli connections, but they are interested in finding more meaningful approaches to traditional practices. We will try to join them this Shabbat and find out what’s doing. Of the two others I found, one is quite far away in the North of TLV. But the second is one I hope to attend when my friend Jenn arrives to join me here from Holland. It appears to be a Conservative synagogue with Saturday moring services. Stay tuned.

We did manage to take the art and architecture tour given for free each Monday at Tel Aviv University. For the first time in a long time, I found myself imagining living in a place I was visiting. The campus is very, very beautiful and the buildings, each in a different style, are, unlike the buildings throughout the city, beautifully kept up and clean.

Toward the end of the tour, the French art professor who was guiding us took us to the campus “synagogue.” It is housed in a building funded by a businessman philanthropist who insisted on hiring a non-Israeli, a Swiss architect. The building looked to me like two smokestacks, such as one might expect to see at Auschwitz; the guide said the Swiss was not Jewish and had no knowledge of Jewish history. I was curious to see the inside.

OH, NO! It is a tiny model, a doll house, a museum piece diorama-type thing. Millions and millions of dollars spent to furnish a room to look like a synagogue, three rows of sculpturally interesting seats on each side, a tiny “women’s area,” a beautful bimah in the center, an artistically-conceived REPLICA. Sort of saying “This is what Jews used to use back when there were synagogue-going Jews.” NONE OF IT EVER PUT TO ACTUAL USE!!!! I asked  if Sabbath services were ever held here. The guide lady looked at me with a mixture of shock and disdain.  “Oh, no, “ she said. “The place is closed on the Sabbath.”

Who uses this then?

“Oh, people like to sit in here and contemplate things.”

Oh, a sort of ZENDO. I see.

This is the only religiously-referenced place on the TLV U. campus, except for the building for Jewish Studies. What on Earth do they study there?

 AND THIS FOR THE PHILOSOPHERS

On our tour of the campus, I saw and photographed a sculpture of Kepler—an interpretation of Kepler. The campus is loaded with outdoor sculptures, real treasures that enhance the beauty of the place.

I send you this photo for the inscription: Translated, it reads: “Wherever there is matter, there is geometry. Kepler.” This, as you Spinoza scholars will recognize, is the very essence of Spinoza’s philosophy: What is everywhere is God; Matter (Nature) is everywhere and so is the Logos of Nature, Geometry. Ah, nothing new under the sun.

I visited Jerusalem yesterday to see the Bamberger archive. Fritz Bamberger ‘s estate bequeathed to the Hebrew Union College his collection of books. He was a Spinoza scholar, and I was hoping to see original manuscripts form Spinoza’s own hand. Also reputed to be there was a lot of anti-Spinoza writing and I was looking forward to reading so much of it as was not in Latin.

The library was a beautiful place, oval wood cabinets framing a central reading table, beautifully lit, a lovely experience. Unfortunately, Bamberger was , as the librarian explained, a bibliophile, not a collector of manuscripts. HUC had expected to receive some original manuscripts when it set aside space for the Bamberger collection but was disappointed to find that it contained only old books, some from the fifteenth century but most from the nineteenth. The librarian did not have time to stay with me in the room and could not leave us alone there so I did not get to read over anything. But I did take some photos so you can see a very old copy of THE ETHICS, and the stacks containing the oldest books on and about Spinoza. Too bad; I’d hoped to bring home a photo of something in his own hand. Sorry.

The oldest text of The Ethics in Bamberger's Spinoza collecton, mid-19th century, alas.

Very old books on Spinoza, not manuscripts. So, why is she sending me this? Because it's thebest I've got, you ungrateful turkey!

And, oh, yes, on the subject of turkeys: We found a nice restaurant down near the port, a place we ate at last year as well. Lots of grilled meats on skewers and lots of nice mezze to accompany. We prefer the grilled chicken and the even better grilled lamb. But who are we to judge?The grilled turkey testicles and tonsils, which we declined to sample, may be delicious as well.

Please do continue responding to these letters. Even if your responses keep me awake at night, they are helping enormously to clarify my muddled thoughts on some very important issues issues such as “Who  am I, anyway?”

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SABBATH IN TEL AVIV, et al

VICTORY IN EGYPT

Before I tell you about our day at the Great Synagogue of Tel Aviv, I thought I’d share the one tidbit we may have received vis-à-vis Egypt that was not broadcast in the US. We heard this on France 24, by far the best news channel we get. They were bravely down in the streets interviewing protesters while CNN, BBC and Fox were broadcasting the same red-lit circle with white tent blobs that was said to be Tahrir from up high up in the news building. (That red circle, tan around the circumference, with whitish blobs in it struck me as pizza and gave me the munchies.)

On France 24, there was an interview with sandmonkey, the premier blogger and tweeter of the protest, hailed as one of the promoters, though he modestly said it was not the internet but the people themselves who did it. Of course, he then went on to express his thanks to Mark Zuckerberg for making Egypt’s liberation possible. At the end of the interview, he was asked if there was anything he wanted to say to the viewers of France 24 and he said, “If anyone still thinks this is the Muslim Brotherhood down here, I invite you to come down to the streets in Tahrir. We are all celebrating by getting very drunk, and we are drinking right here in the street!” I’m sure Bibi Netanyahu slept better for having this info; I certainly did.

SABBATH AT THE GREAT SYNAGOGUE

 There are probably reasons for my being a synagogue junkie that I don’t own up to. What I do like to tell myself I’m doing is expanding my sense of what Jews do in the rituals of prayer; I’m comparing what goes on in synagogues all over the world and noting how, unlike Catholics, for example, the religious practice changes shape with changing cultures.

In Nice three years ago, we visited the Main Synagogue which was Orthodox and was the only one of about eight in the city that was actually noted in the tourist guides. We had to find the others with a lot of detective work. This grand old  schul was hidden behind an ordinary-looking door and we were patted down and searched before being allowed in. Nice, of course, is a port on the Mediterranean and the precautions were probably warranted. The place was packed and the Rabbi and Cantor were a pair or holy rollers. The women sat upstairs. I was shocked to find that, despite a large number of women in attendance, there was neither a set of prayer books nor a set of Torah books available. What was offered was a messy table full of random, tattered old books, looking as though they’d been bequeathed after vigorous use; the result was that no woman was looking at the same page as any other and so we could not consult one another to get onto the right page. 

 At the crowded Kiddush following the service, we met an American couple and were invited back to their apartment for lunch; like us they were renting an apartment for the month. It was a rich, warm experience, good for a synagogue junkie.

A week later we tracked down a well-hidden Masoretic synagogue. These people seemed even more frightened than the Orthodox to make the place or time of their services public. We finally located them down a dirt path behind a yoga school in a very lovely modern building, invisible from the street. Jack was called on for an aliya and we were welcomed to the Kiddush which was quite elaborate; we made friends with a Russian doctor who had taught for several years at Stony Brook University and promised she’d look us up when she returned to Long Island. Another junkie high.

Our favorite synagogue experience, however, was in Berlin. We visited the great Oranienburger Synagogue and were saddened to learn that it is no more than a museum, only part of the building having been restored after it was destroyed. A careful internet search, however, turned up a  Masoretic schul, also somewhat hidden from the street and somewhat disguised as something else. The congregation was surprisingly large and very friendly. We had a sit-down Kiddush to celebrate the 90th birthday of a Holocaust survivor who had been one of the famous counterfeiters, the people who, working in the camps as engravers, had foiled Hitler’s plot to inflate British and American currencies by dumping millions of forged bills on the market. Everyone welcomed us heartily and we were seated in the place of honor across from the birthday man.  

So, you see, synagogue junkie-ism has its privileges. I tell myself about all this compare-and-contrast stuff but I suspect there are other reasons for junketing around synagogues. One of them occurred to me this morning. As a visitor to a new synagogue you do not have to grind your teeth when Mr. You-know-who, that jerk, walks in, and you don’t have to look down when your political enemy on the committee for xyz steps up to the bimah, that idiot. There’s no politics, the bane of synagogue membership. There are no neighborhood people, no unsettled scores. And even if you can’t follow the service–which, for the most part, I can’t–you have the music and ….the architecture! Pure aesthetics, pure pleasure. This is a big reason I’m a synagogue junkie.

Last year in Tel Aviv, we visited the Gordon Street synagogue on what turned out to be Tu B’shvat, Jewish Arbor Day, and also the day my Bat Mitzvah portion, the Shirah, was  the Torah portion. I was so excited to be re-connecting to my portion in Israel. Until, that is, we got to the schul. I was the only woman and I had to keep re-counting the men in the seats below because it did not seem that there were even ten, the number required to make a minyan, the number required for opening and reading the Torah. Just in time, a tenth man appeared and I heard my Torah portion chanted, well, er, raced through hastily, but it was….in Israel. It was deeply saddening and also a bit shocking to find that on this lovely holiday, when many fruits and nuts are supposed to be shared at the Kiddush and special prayers said in gratitude for the gift of trees, there were just a few grouchy old men at the Sabbath service. They grudgingly offered us some wine in plastic cups and a few peanuts, and then all went home. I was heartbroken.

Dauntless, I insisted on visiting the Great Synagogue on Allenby Street a few days ago after our visit to the nearby Carmel market. Our arms loaded down with strawberries, olives and cheese, we walked in to see the beautiful dome set with stained glass windows, each one portraying a European synagogue that was destroyed in the Holocaust. It was a serenely beautiful place. Very large and bright and seemingly well-kept. I felt certain that here, at least, a congregation would show up on Shabbat.

On Friday we met our new friend, Bob Greene, and his girlfriend for lunch. Bob is in his late eighties and lives in East Hampton. We met him through a mutual friend when I learned that he was planning to sojourn during the winter months in Tel Aviv. Bob is a jazz pianist and an expert on Jelly Roll Morton. When we met for lunch he’d already networked his way into playing at a Tel Aviv jazz club with a Dixie Band. He told us he’d had to take a bath when he got home to wash away the memories of the worst Dixie Land music he’d ever joined in playing. But he and Diane are having a great time in Tel Aviv. We lunched at Bob’s favorite place, right on his corner. He knew all the waitresses and they understandably adored him.

After lunch, we went again to the Carmel outdoor market, just down the street from Bob’s place. Diane had told me that by 3:30 on Friday, the merchants are throwing away their merchandise and everything is very cheap. But I was too shy to bargain and bought strawberries for what was asked. We were there, however, to buy a yarmulkah for Jack so we could attend services this morning at the Great Synagogue. On our first visit, we’d noticed that there was no box of yarmulkas available as you walk in which is usually the case in American synagogues—in fact, in any other synagogue we’d ever been in. We came away with a pretty crocheted skull cap.

This morning, I was expecting something wonderful as we entered the very impressive and beautiful sanctuary.

The Ark in The Great Synagogue

Oh, no! Nobody there. And the service had been going on for several hours. The cantor was immediately evident: the usual huge-chested basso profundo type. Beside him, a short and very old man, quiet and gentle as he went about arranging this and that. I took him to be the rabbi but I was mistaken. There was also a director who called up the members to bless the Torah as parts were chanted. These three men occupied the bimah throughout the service. Others milled about. Others. Well, had we not arrived , there would have been just ten men including the rabbi and cantor. Jack made eleven, and his presence was much remarked upon. He was invited for an aliya and had to beg the cantor to find him a tallis for the job.

Looking down from above—again—I had the impression that the main Torah reader, a pallid, stringy youth, and the Haftarah reader—a heartier young man—had both been imported for the purpose. They were decades younger than anyone else there. (The rabbi, a tiny, scrawny man in Chasidic dress with a huge cloud of grey curls that flowed continuously from his temples to halfway down his chest, stood among the rest of the congregants, swaying and jumping and bowing with such ferocious energy that I soon understood why he would never put on any weight.) I decided that the two young readers were volunteers from some Jewish youth organization that provides people to make up a minyan so the various synagogues in Tel Aviv can hold Sabbath services. Two or three other men were also clearly there in that same capacity; they sat through most of the service, reading newpapers and tourist brochures. (The synagogue is open for services only on Saturday mornings; the rest of the week it is open for tours.)

I met Jack in the lobby as soon as the service was over and we tried to leave quickly. We were both terribly sad. But the cantor called us back to join in the kiddush. This was a tiny table set with a few pieces of cake, some potato chips, and exactly ten little pieces of lox. A man handed me a cup of wine and gestured to an even smaller table back in the shadows of the entranceway. The “women’s table.” The one other woman who had sat with me upstairs held out the dish with three pieces of cake on it. So not only are we too gorgeous and seductive for the men to look upon us without being distracted from their prayers, we are also a threat to their digestions!

The midrash (Torah study) session which we are accustomed to having after the kiddush was held right there at the table, the Cantor reading a section and asking questions of the men as they chewed on their lox. It was over in five minutes.

POST-SYNAGOGUE BLUES

 Jack and I could barely speak for all the grief we felt. Here in the Great Synagogue of Tel Aviv, shills were being sent in to make up the requirement of ten men! Which of course brought me back to all of last year’s reflections on what the State of Israel is for.

A safe place for Jews, Jack says over cappuccino on Allenby Street.

But if these Jews don’t practice Judaism, what is the world knocking itself out for?

We are persecuted everywhere else we go.

Yes, I say, but so are the Roma. The world doesn’t allocate a safe haven for Roma!

Jack waves me away. This is not a discussion he wants to have. Again. But Sandy Balsam has answered this question several times. Jews, he says, are an international treasure. We have contributed disproportionately to the world’s music, art, literature, philosophy and science. Israel leads the world in technological patents per person (however you calculate that weird number.) This, Sandy argues, is why the world must keep Israel in existence.

Well, this is, at base, racial exceptionalism and Sandy is comfortablewith that. I’m not. I”m more okay with exceptionalism than I am with the racial aspect. I have a problem with Judaism being perceived and owned as racial.

I am perhaps too hard on myself but I don’t think I should ride in to the world’s extraordinary protection of Israel on the coattails of Einstein, Bernstein and Rubenstein et al. They deserve to be provided a safe haven where they can create and think, etc in peace and safety. But what have I done? And these chubby ladies with too much makeup and long red fingernails talking noisily over their cappuccinos at the next table, what have they done?

I think that if I am not Bernstein etc  I have to do something affirmative to earn this extraordinary status. If I want the world to protect a Jewish state, the least I can do is be Jewish!

Here Jack rejoins the conversation and says –for the umpteenth time–that I am Jewish without doing anything, that I was born Jewish and there’s no way out for me. And that is why we need Israel. Because whether I see myself as Jewish or not, whether I practice my Judaism or not, others will march me off to the…yada yada, yada…..

So the argument is really that any endangered group must be protected, that the world owes any group that is threatened with extermination a safe and secure place because human life makes a moral claim on everyone.

So, if the Roma were threatened with extinction the world would be morally bound to create a state with full nation status to protect them? I doubt that.  And this reasoning brings us back to something I mentioned in last year’s letters: Barry Farber’s suggestion that, if protection was all that Israel was about, a bequest of the relatively empty state of Wah-oh-min would have provided Jews more safety than this current table prepared in the presence of our enemies.

NO! This will not sit with me. I don’t get to swim in the blue Ha Yam, and surf and splash around on Shabbat, in a land sustained, protected and supported by the entire western world like no other place on Earth because I happened to be my mother’s daughter. Israel makes a moral claim on others. And when I talk about the moral obligation created by that support, I am not referring merely to the notion that Israel must be morally fastidious in the way it conducts itself with its enemies, even to the point of self-endangerment.

I am saying that to warrant a Jewish state, the people of Israel must be affirmatively Jewish. There are three paths to this Jewishness, as I see it, three ways to interpret Jewish Identity.

One can BELIEVE in a Jewish theology: Moses received the Ten Commandments from God himself and in this moment the Jewish people became the chosen of God , etc etc. OR one can PRACTICE Jewish ritual and tradition—keep kosher, keep the Sabbath—and adhere to this practice without first reaching questions of theological belief. (This , I believ, makes the most sense in a time when religious belief is no longer intellectually tenable. I know from experience that one can “learn by doing,” that one can reach an intellectually and morally acceptable position through dedicated practice.) FINALLY, one can locate one’s Jewish Identity in BLOODLINE.

When Jack says that I was “born Jewish” and that “there is nothing I can do about it,” I AM APPALLED. First of all, I was not raised a Jew. My family were Socialist atheists of a particularly strident variety. So, as a matter of historical fact, I have had to shape for myself, by my own choice, whatever Jewish identity I have.

But I would not have it any other way. To say one is Jewish the way one is red-headed is to strip all moral significance from one’s Judaism. If one’s religion is not a choice, it cannot be a commitment. It has nothing to do with human freedom and so lacks all moral significance. And if your Jewishness lacks any moral significance, it has no moral claim on other people, for why should anyone owe you anything for a fact over which you have no control. As a born-Jew you are owed no more than what you are owed as a human being. And perhaps that is what Israel is for.

But there are other problems with the racialist notion of Judaism. A woman I know who was born in Germany before the Second War and raised there during the War, worries that she will be misunderstood in America. She takes great delight in explaining to anyone who will stand still long enough to listen that she is, “one-eighth Jewish blood.” When I heard her gleefully proclaiming this redemptive fact to a rabbi one evening, I intervened and whiskedher away. “Judaism is not something that can be fractionalized,” I told her. “To a rabbi, you sound like Hitler, like the Gestapo going around and noting the fractions in a person’s bloodline. Fractions are cold, Aryan mechanisms for determining who shall live and who shall die. Come, have some wine and forget about the fractions of your blood. This is a synagogue, home to Judaism.” And this is why I insist on “Judaism, a system of belief and practice, somthing that cannot be had in halves or quarters or eighths. Something that is a matter of free, and so, moral, commitment.

The Not-So-Great Synagogue a block away from the Great, shuttered, crumbling and marked with graffiti.

   The shop next door to the Not-So-Great. Allenby Street reminds me of 14th Street. Tchotchkadik, my father would say.

 WE are finishing up our capuccino, and I remind Jack of the woman we met over a year ago at a synagogue potluck Friday night dinner. She asked if I was a member of the congregation.

No, I said, I’m waiting to see what happens when the new rabbi arrives.

What are you waiting for?

I am hoping he will stir people to come to Sabbath services. Torah services. The ones we have on Saturdays. As of now, there’s no service on Saturdays. I’m waiting for that.

Why do you think that’s so important.

Oh, well, umn, because it’s in the ten commandments, you know. Even before you are commanded not to commit adultery or murder, you are commanded to keep the Sabbath.

And you take that seriously?

Well, I think it’s pretty central. I mean, it’s right up there with monotheism and the taboo on graven images. Don’t you take those things seriously?

Not at all. It’s some ancient junk.

Do you worship many gods? Idols and graven images?

No one keeps the Sabbath.

Do you murder, steal, commit adultery?

That’s a code of ethics for everyone, so I accept that.

But, then, what do you suppose makes you Jewish?

She thinks for a few moments.

I was born Jewish. I’m a descendant of Jews. My ancestors were Jews who were driven out of Egypt. (This isn’t also “junk?” Oh, well, we are free to choose our myths.) It’s in my blood. That is what makes me Jewish.

Oh, golly! Here, before me, is the real deal. A Jew by BLOOD.

Well, I say, that’s ok for you because you have dark hair and eyes, and olive-toned skin, so it’s plausible that you can, in fact, trace your lineage back to King David. But I, as you can see, have my mother’s pale blue eyes and fair complexion. And the pale hair she took from both her parents. And my father’s father had the same pale hair and eyes, which is why, even though blue eyes are genetically recessive, my siblings and I and all my cousins and both my children are fair-skinned and blue-eyed. We, unfortunately, spring from European converts to Judaism; we are not in the line of King David.

She is shocked, shocked. Jews did not convert people, she insists.

Well, I say, staring into her face, these are not blue contact lenses! In fact millions of Aryans converted to Judaism during the diaspora whether Jews implored them to or not. And I am not of your nobler bloodline., so I have to practice my Judaism, and that is why I want to observe the Sabbath, starting with a Torah service on Saturday mornings, and that is why, fair-haired creature that I am, I am not yet a member of your congregation. But I am hopeful, and that is why I am here to dine with you. (If, that is, you will allow me to break bread with you even though I’m not in the bloodline.)

This bloodline stuff is morally odious. Jews who continue to think this way after Hitler’s blood-tracings are conspiring with the enemy. What bloodline is is TRIBAL. To pin Judaism to a bloodline is to take the anti-Semites’ view that Jews are a secret cult that stick to themselves and serve themselves and conspire among themselves and no one else can get into their inner circles because it’s a cult of blood.

Think, I urge these people, of just who the other TRIBES of today’s world are: The Hutus and the Tutsis, the Navajo and the Sioux, the wild men in white robes tearing on horseback through the desert. (But even the old Arab tribes eventually united under Saud in the start of what is a continuing de-tribalization process.) Do you really want to be one of them? A Bantu? A Mohawk? A Shinnecock? You cannot ask to be taken seriously in the modern west as a tribe. Is the Nation of Israel akin to the Navajo Nation? Is The Land of Israel, then, a reservation for the protection of an adorable little oddity of antiquity, the Jewish tribe? Is Israel, like the American Indian reservations, a guilt-offering from the wider world which also serves as a place to isolate people they really don’t want to deal with? Because that what goes down with tribes, you should know.

Well, Sandy Balsam would probably be ok with this and say that it is a good thing to  protect the Jews in Israel in the same way and for the same reasons that America protects–and isolates– its native populations. But we all do hope, don’t we, that the Indian tribes use their reservations to keep their ancient cultures alive. If all they do is run casinos on them, we taxpayers feel we are being had. So if Israel is a tribal reservation, the people who live on the res should practice their tribal ways there, exercise the right to speak and practice their, oh, yes, religion.

Jack points out, rightly, that diaspora Jews feel more pressure to keep the old culture alive than do Jews in Israel who apparently think that being here is enough. Well, think of those Mashantucket Pequots and their casino, say I. Is Israel merely a place you can get a good bagel?

To see Israel of a cultural, rather than a religious, artifact entails the sort of absurdity I heard awhile back on Yom Kippur when a new member at a synagogue stood up to say how grateful she was to have found other Jews in her community to make her feel at home. Now she has new friends to meet with once a week for Mah Jongg! So, then, is this what we are to pass along to our children and our children’s children, this game of painted tiles? Play Mah Jongg, eat noodles, ando count on an abacus! If there is nothing specifically Jewish that you are required to DO to call yourself Jewish, this is where we end up. And I’M NOT GOING THERE!

So (we are still back on Allenby Street having coffee) I am wondering how a city like Tel Aviv sees itself as a Jewish city in a Jewish state if volunteers have to be dragged in from elsewhere to make up the requirement of ten men to hold a Sabbath service when Sabbath observance–along with a single, invisible God– is the very minimum required to be a Jew. That’s where I am on this, no matter how many times I argue it through with Jack. I can never settle for the amoral answer to the question of Jewish Identity and say my religion travels in my blood.

And I fail to understand why merely being in Israel is enough of a Jewish practice. Anyone can be in Israel. And this behavior involves one in a logical circle: If the justification of Israel is that it is a place for Jews to feel safe, and then feeling safe in Israel is enough to make you a Jew….well, you see how this comes out. Jews in Israel, like Jews everywhere need to make an affirmative, conscious–read that  moral–commitment, or the whole house caves in.

HA YAM

So now we go dancing! Of course, DANCING!  This is how Tel Aviv does shabbos. There are more than seventy folk dances, some for couples, some for singles, some in lines, some in circles, some fast, some slow, all of them very, very SEXY. It is a mitzvah, btw, to make love on the Sabbath and I have to suppose that this is what they’re warming up for.

I have wanted to learn these dances since last year. I am amazed that everyone knows them. You hear two or three notes of a song and they begin the complicated stepping and weaving that makes up the dance for that particular song. Where do you learn this? Finally, I get up the courage to ask the men who are playing the music on tapes and cd’s. One of them writes on a piece of paper. Rokdim. com. I have been to that site. It is a list of all the dances, all the songs, the names of the persons who made up each dance and the date on which it was entered on the list. The dates go back to the early seventies. Is this one of those secret Jewish societies? How do I learn to do the dances, not just learn their names?

I pester the man at the Ministry of Tourism. He has gotten to know me through our emails. After saying he is a government official and not responsible for private matters like dance classes or dance clubs, I get tough with him and tell him he is not being helpful to a tourist. So he does a little research and tells me there are classes held on the beach, in front of the Renaissance Hotel, one hour before the dancing starts on Saturdays. Thank you, I say. Now you are being helpful to tourists.

We missed the dance class today because of the agonized discussion over cappuccino on Allenby Street, but we will try again next week. I am determined that Jack will not leave TLV without dancing with me once on the beach. We will have to learn at least one sexy dance.

The beach at the end of Bob Greene’s street, a surfing spot and not as corwded as the beach where the dancing takes place or the beach near the port which was mobbed on Shabbat.

The beach promenade is as we remembered it from last year, thronged with people, and the flea market along the port is teeming as well. So it was true, then, that the terribly thin turnout last week was due to fear of getting wet. Ok, they are chickens at heart, these Israelis who give guns to young girls. 

 And once, again, the huge dogs are out in force, most of them owned by women as I noted last year. (Men tend to go in for the tiny, cuddly dogs, cockapoos and such. But, as previously noted, this is a country that reads backwards, too.) Great Danes, a Samoyed or two, many German shepherds….but the pet of choice is…THE GOLDEN LAB!

I am very sensitive on this subject. As an owner of a Black Lab, (long deceased, but still MY dog) I can’t help keeping track in a guesstimate sort of way of the number of Yellow and Golden Labs versus the number of Black Labs. And I have to say there is a decided preference among Israelis–an overwhelming preference– for ARYANS!!! (An aside: The Times reported last week that the most popular/populous dog on Long Island is the Black Labrador. Yay!)

Which brings me to the cab driver and, finally, a bit of on-the-street chatter from Tel Aviv:

We needed to take a cab to schul this morning to get there in time. When we gave the driver the address, he said, “What is it? You have a Bar Mitzvah there?”

No, I said.  We just want to be there.

The man shrugged. He knew he had aliens in his car. (We should have seen it as the sign it was that only crazy people go to schul, even to the GREAT SYNAGOGUE.)

A long silence. Many red lights, many stops as we proceed along Ben Yehuda Street to Allenby.

And then, suddenly, from out of nowhere, “There are too many Black people in Israel!”

Huh? I look around quickly and see a single thin Black boy, his shoulders hunched, his hands crammed into the pockets of his jeans, walking along the empty shabbos street.

How many? I ask.

Way too many. It’s terrible. A terrible thing for Israel.

Ethiopians?

No, from Niger. They walk across the desert into Egypt, and then they walk across more desert to come here. It’s terrible. They sneak across the border. It’s illegal!

I understand, I say. They come here to look for work.

It’s  terrible. Way too many of them. the government has to do something.

Really? Do they turn to crime because they can’t find jobs?

They bring everything bad with them. Crime and everything filthy.

Well, I say, now that Egypt will get better soon, perhaps they will want to stay in Egypt.

Egypt is also terrible, he says.

Has the situation in Egypt affected tourism here in Tel Aviv?

No, not much. I don’t think it makes any difference. We are going to have to do something to stop all those Black people, though. There are too many of them here.

Are you worried about what’s happening now in Egypt?

Not so much. We have to wait and see what happens.

That’s it, folks. You’ve been asking how the Israeli on the street feels about the situation in Egypt. The taxi driver is worried. But not so worried as he is about the situation in Niger.

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A Tel Aviv Sabbath, et al

VICTORY IN EGYPT

Before I tell you about our day at the Great Synagogue of Tel Aviv, I thought I’d share the one tidbit we may have received vis-à-vis Egypt that was not broadcast in the US. We heard this on France 24, by far the best news channel we get. They were bravely down in the streets interviewing protesters while CNN, BBC and Fox were broadcasting the same red-lit circle with white tent blobs that was said to be Tahrir from up high up in the news building. (That red circle, tan around the circumference, with whitish blobs in it struck me as pizza and gave me the munchies.)

On France 24, there was an interview with sandmonkey, the premier blogger and tweeter of the protest, hailed as one of the promoters, though he modestly said it was not the internet but the people themselves who did it. Of course, he then went on to express his thanks to Mark Zuckerberg for making Egypt’s liberation possible. At the end of the interview, he was asked if there was anything he wanted to say to the viewers of France 24 and he said, “If anyone still thinks this is the Muslim Brotherhood down here, I invite you to come down to the streets in Tahrir. We are all celebrating by getting very drunk, and we are drinking right here in the street!” I’m sure Bibi Netanyahu slept better for having this info; I certainly did.

SABBATH AT THE GREAT SYNAGOGUE

 There are probably reasons for my being a synagogue junkie that I don’t own up to. What I do like to tell myself I’m doing is expanding my sense of what Jews do in the rituals of prayer; I’m comparing what goes on in synagogues all over the world and noting how, unlike Catholics, for example, the religious practice changes shape with changing cultures.

In Nice three years ago, we visited the Main Synagogue which was Orthodox and was the only one of about eight in the city that was actually noted in the tourist guides. We had to find the others with a lot of detective work. This grand old  schul was hidden behind an ordinary-looking door and we were patted down and searched before being allowed in. Nice, of course, is a port on the Mediterranean and the precautions were probably warranted. The place was packed and the Rabbi and Cantor were a pair or holy rollers. The women sat upstairs. I was shocked to find that, despite a large number of women in attendance, there was neither a set of prayer books nor a set of Torah books available. What was offered was a messy table full of random, tattered old books, looking as though they’d been bequeathed after vigorous use; the result was that no woman was looking at the same page as any other and so we could not consult one another to get onto the right page. 

 At the crowded Kiddush following the service, we met an American couple and were invited back to their apartment for lunch; like us they were renting an apartment for the month. It was a rich, warm experience, good for a synagogue junkie.

A week later we tracked down a well-hidden Masoretic synagogue. These people seemed even more frightened than the Orthodox to make the place or time of their services public. We finally located them down a dirt path behind a yoga school in a very lovely modern building, invisible from the street. Jack was called on for an aliya and we were welcomed to the Kiddush which was quite elaborate; we made friends with a Russian doctor who had taught for several years at Stony Brook University and promised she’d look us up when she returned to Long Island. Another junkie high.

Our favorite synagogue experience, however, was in Berlin. We visited the great Oranienburger Synagogue and were saddened to learn that it is no more than a museum, only part of the building having been restored after it was destroyed. A careful internet search, however, turned up a  Masoretic schul, also somewhat hidden from the street and somewhat disguised as something else. The congregation was surprisingly large and very friendly. We had a sit-down Kiddush to celebrate the 90th birthday of a Holocaust survivor who had been one of the famous counterfeiters, the people who, working in the camps as engravers, had foiled Hitler’s plot to inflate British and American currencies by dumping millions of forged bills on the market. Everyone welcomed us heartily and we were seated in the place of honor across from the birthday man.  

So, you see, synagogue junkie-ism has its privileges. I tell myself about all this compare-and-contrast stuff but I suspect there are other reasons for junketing around synagogues. One of them occurred to me this morning. As a visitor to a new synagogue you do not have to grind your teeth when Mr. You-know-who, that jerk, walks in, and you don’t have to look down when your political enemy on the committee for xyz steps up to the bimah, that idiot. There’s no politics, the bane of synagogue membership. There are no neighborhood people, no unsettled scores. And even if you can’t follow the service–which, for the most part, I can’t–you have the music and ….the architecture! Pure aesthetics, pure pleasure. This is a big reason I’m a synagogue junkie.

Last year in Tel Aviv, we visited the Gordon Street synagogue on what turned out to be Tu B’shvat, Jewish Arbor Day, and also the day my Bat Mitzvah portion, the Shirah, was  the Torah portion. I was so excited to be re-connecting to my portion in Israel. Until, that is, we got to the schul. I was the only woman and I had to keep re-counting the men in the seats below because it did not seem that there were even ten, the number required to make a minyan, the number required for opening and reading the Torah. Just in time, a tenth man appeared and I heard my Torah portion chanted, well, er, raced through hastily, but it was….in Israel. It was deeply saddening and also a bit shocking to find that on this lovely holiday, when many fruits and nuts are supposed to be shared at the Kiddush and special prayers said in gratitude for the gift of trees, there were just a few grouchy old men at the Sabbath service. They grudgingly offered us some wine in plastic cups and a few peanuts, and then all went home. I was heartbroken.

Dauntless, I insisted on visiting the Great Synagogue on Allenby Street a few days ago after our visit to the nearby Carmel market. Our arms loaded down with strawberries, olives and cheese, we walked in to see the beautiful dome set with stained glass windows, each one portraying a European synagogue that was destroyed in the Holocaust. It was a serenely beautiful place. Very large and bright and seemingly well-kept. I felt certain that here, at least, a congregation would show up on Shabbat.

On Friday we met our new friend, Bob Greene, and his girlfriend for lunch. Bob is in his late eighties and lives in East Hampton. We met him through a mutual friend when I learned that he was planning to sojourn during the winter months in Tel Aviv. Bob is a jazz pianist and an expert on Jelly Roll Morton. When we met for lunch he’d already networked his way into playing at a Tel Aviv jazz club with a Dixie Band. He told us he’d had to take a bath when he got home to wash away the memories of the worst Dixie Land music he’d ever joined in playing. But he and Diane are having a great time in Tel Aviv. We lunched at Bob’s favorite place, right on his corner. He knew all the waitresses and they understandably adored him.

After lunch, we went again to the Carmel outdoor market, just down the street from Bob’s place. Diane had told me that by 3:30 on Friday, the merchants are throwing away their merchandise and everything is very cheap. But I was too shy to bargain and bought strawberries for what was asked. We were there, however, to buy a yarmulkah for Jack so we could attend services this morning at the Great Synagogue. On our first visit, we’d noticed that there was no box of yarmulkas available as you walk in which is usually the case in American synagogues—in fact, in any other synagogue we’d ever been in. We came away with a pretty crocheted skull cap.

This morning, I was expecting something wonderful as we entered the very impressive and beautiful sanctuary.

The Ark in The Great Synagogue

Oh, no! Nobody there. And the service had been going on for several hours. The cantor was immediately evident: the usual huge-chested basso profundo type. Beside him, a short and very old man, quiet and gentle as he went about arranging this and that. I took him to be the rabbi but I was mistaken. There was also a director who called up the members to bless the Torah as parts were chanted. These three men occupied the bimah throughout the service. Others milled about. Others. Well, had we not arrived , there would have been just ten men including the rabbi and cantor. Jack made eleven, and his presence was much remarked upon. He was invited for an aliya and had to beg the cantor to find him a tallis for the job.

Looking down from above—again—I had the impression that the main Torah reader, a pallid, stringy youth, and the Haftarah reader—a heartier young man—had both been imported for the purpose. They were decades younger than anyone else there. (The rabbi, a tiny, scrawny man in Chasidic dress with a huge cloud of grey curls that flowed continuously from his temples to halfway down his chest, stood among the rest of the congregants, swaying and jumping and bowing with such ferocious energy that I soon understood why he would never put on any weight.) I decided that the two young readers were volunteers from some Jewish youth organization that provides people to make up a minyan so the various synagogues in Tel Aviv can hold Sabbath services. Two or three other men were also clearly there in that same capacity; they sat through most of the service, reading newpapers and tourist brochures. (The synagogue is open for services only on Saturday mornings; the rest of the week it is open for tours.)

I met Jack in the lobby as soon as the service was over and we tried to leave quickly. We were both terribly sad. But the cantor called us back to join in the kiddush. This was a tiny table set with a few pieces of cake, some potato chips, and exactly ten little pieces of lox. A man handed me a cup of wine and gestured to an even smaller table back in the shadows of the entranceway. The “women’s table.” The one other woman who had sat with me upstairs held out the dish with three pieces of cake on it. So not only are we too gorgeous and seductive for the men to look upon us without being distracted from their prayers, we are also a threat to their digestions!

The midrash (Torah study) session which we are accustomed to having after the kiddush was held right there at the table, the Cantor reading a section and asking questions of the men as they chewed on their lox. It was over in five minutes.

POST-SYNAGOGUE BLUES

 Jack and I could barely speak for all the grief we felt. Here in the Great Synagogue of Tel Aviv, shills were being sent in to make up the requirement of ten men! Which of course brought me back to all of last year’s reflections on what the State of Israel is for.

A safe place for Jews, Jack says over cappuccino on Allenby Street.

But if these Jews don’t practice Judaism, what is the world knocking itself out for?

We are persecuted everywhere else we go.

Yes, I say, but so are the Roma. The world doesn’t allocate a safe haven for Roma!

Jack waves me away. This is not a discussion he wants to have. Again. But Sandy Balsam has answered this question several times. Jews, he says, are an international treasure. We have contributed disproportionately to the world’s music, art, literature, philosophy and science. Israel leads the world in technological patents per person (however you calculate that weird number.) This, Sandy argues, is why the world must keep Israel in existence.

Well, this is, at base, racial exceptionalism and Sandy is comfortablewith that. I’m not. I”m more okay with exceptionalism than I am with the racial aspect. I have a problem with Judaism being perceived and owned as racial.

I am perhaps too hard on myself but I don’t think I should ride in to the world’s extraordinary protection of Israel on the coattails of Einstein, Bernstein and Rubenstein et al. They deserve to be provided a safe haven where they can create and think, etc in peace and safety. But what have I done? And these chubby ladies with too much makeup and long red fingernails talking noisily over their cappuccinos at the next table, what have they done?

I think that if I am not Bernstein etc  I have to do something affirmative to earn this extraordinary status. If I want the world to protect a Jewish state, the least I can do is be Jewish!

Here Jack rejoins the conversation and says –for the umpteenth time–that I am Jewish without doing anything, that I was born Jewish and there’s no way out for me. And that is why we need Israel. Because whether I see myself as Jewish or not, whether I practice my Judaism or not, others will march me off to the…yada yada, yada…..

So the argument is really that any endangered group must be protected, that the world owes any group that is threatened with extermination a safe and secure place because human life makes a moral claim on everyone.

So, if the Roma were threatened with extinction the world would be morally bound to create a state with full nation status to protect them? I doubt that.  And this reasoning brings us back to something I mentioned in last year’s letters: Barry Farber’s suggestion that, if protection was all that Israel was about, a bequest of the relatively empty state of Wah-oh-min would have provided Jews more safety than this current table prepared in the presence of our enemies.

NO! This will not sit with me. I don’t get to swim in the blue Ha Yam, and surf and splash around on Shabbat, in a land sustained, protected and supported by the entire western world like no other place on Earth because I happened to be my mother’s daughter. Israel makes a moral claim on others. And when I talk about the moral obligation created by that support, I am not referring merely to the notion that Israel must be morally fastidious in the way it conducts itself with its enemies, even to the point of self-endangerment.

I am saying that to warrant a Jewish state, the people of Israel must be affirmatively Jewish. There are three paths to this Jewishness, as I see it, three ways to interpret Jewish Identity.

One can BELIEVE in a Jewish theology: Moses received the Ten Commandments from God himself and in this moment the Jewish people became the chosen of God , etc etc. OR one can PRACTICE Jewish ritual and tradition—keep kosher, keep the Sabbath—and adhere to this practice without first reaching questions of theological belief. (This , I believ, makes the most sense in a time when religious belief is no longer intellectually tenable. I know from experience that one can “learn by doing,” that one can reach an intellectually and morally acceptable position through dedicated practice.) FINALLY, one can locate one’s Jewish Identity in BLOODLINE.

When Jack says that I was “born Jewish” and that “there is nothing I can do about it,” I AM APPALLED. First of all, I was not raised a Jew. My family were Socialist atheists of a particularly strident variety. So, as a matter of historical fact, I have had to shape for myself, by my own choice, whatever Jewish identity I have.

But I would not have it any other way. To say one is Jewish the way one is red-headed is to strip all moral significance from one’s Judaism. If one’s religion is not a choice, it cannot be a commitment. It has nothing to do with human freedom and so lacks all moral significance. And if your Jewishness lacks any moral significance, it has no moral claim on other people, for why should anyone owe you anything for a fact over which you have no control. As a born-Jew you are owed no more than what you are owed as a human being. And perhaps that is what Israel is for.

But there are other problems with the racialist notion of Judaism. A woman I know who was born in Germany before the Second War and raised there during the War, worries that she will be misunderstood in America. She takes great delight in explaining to anyone who will stand still long enough to listen that she is, “one-eighth Jewish blood.” When I heard her gleefully proclaiming this redemptive fact to a rabbi one evening, I intervened and whiskedher away. “Judaism is not something that can be fractionalized,” I told her. “To a rabbi, you sound like Hitler, like the Gestapo going around and noting the fractions in a person’s bloodline. Fractions are cold, Aryan mechanisms for determining who shall live and who shall die. Come, have some wine and forget about the fractions of your blood. This is a synagogue, home to Judaism.” And this is why I insist on “Judaism, a system of belief and practice, somthing that cannot be had in halves or quarters or eighths. Something that is a matter of free, and so, moral, commitment.

The Not-So-Great Synagogue a block away from the Great, shuttered, crumbling and marked with graffiti.

   The shop next door to the Not-So-Great. Allenby Street reminds me of 14th Street. Tchotchkadik, my father would say.

 WE are finishing up our capuccino, and I remind Jack of the woman we met over a year ago at a synagogue potluck Friday night dinner. She asked if I was a member of the congregation.

No, I said, I’m waiting to see what happens when the new rabbi arrives.

What are you waiting for?

I am hoping he will stir people to come to Sabbath services. Torah services. The ones we have on Saturdays. As of now, there’s no service on Saturdays. I’m waiting for that.

Why do you think that’s so important.

Oh, well, umn, because it’s in the ten commandments, you know. Even before you are commanded not to commit adultery or murder, you are commanded to keep the Sabbath.

And you take that seriously?

Well, I think it’s pretty central. I mean, it’s right up there with monotheism and the taboo on graven images. Don’t you take those things seriously?

Not at all. It’s some ancient junk.

Do you worship many gods? Idols and graven images?

No one keeps the Sabbath.

Do you murder, steal, commit adultery?

That’s a code of ethics for everyone, so I accept that.

But, then, what do you suppose makes you Jewish?

She thinks for a few moments.

I was born Jewish. I’m a descendant of Jews. My ancestors were Jews who were driven out of Egypt. (This isn’t also “junk?” Oh, well, we are free to choose our myths.) It’s in my blood. That is what makes me Jewish.

Oh, golly! Here, before me, is the real deal. A Jew by BLOOD.

Well, I say, that’s ok for you because you have dark hair and eyes, and olive-toned skin, so it’s plausible that you can, in fact, trace your lineage back to King David. But I, as you can see, have my mother’s pale blue eyes and fair complexion. And the pale hair she took from both her parents. And my father’s father had the same pale hair and eyes, which is why, even though blue eyes are genetically recessive, my siblings and I and all my cousins and both my children are fair-skinned and blue-eyed. We, unfortunately, spring from European converts to Judaism; we are not in the line of King David.

She is shocked, shocked. Jews did not convert people, she insists.

Well, I say, staring into her face, these are not blue contact lenses! In fact millions of Aryans converted to Judaism during the diaspora whether Jews implored them to or not. And I am not of your nobler bloodline., so I have to practice my Judaism, and that is why I want to observe the Sabbath, starting with a Torah service on Saturday mornings, and that is why, fair-haired creature that I am, I am not yet a member of your congregation. But I am hopeful, and that is why I am here to dine with you. (If, that is, you will allow me to break bread with you even though I’m not in the bloodline.)

This bloodline stuff is morally odious. Jews who continue to think this way after Hitler’s blood-tracings are conspiring with the enemy. What bloodline is is TRIBAL. To pin Judaism to a bloodline is to take the anti-Semites’ view that Jews are a secret cult that stick to themselves and serve themselves and conspire among themselves and no one else can get into their inner circles because it’s a cult of blood.

Think, I urge these people, of just who the other TRIBES of today’s world are: The Hutus and the Tutsis, the Navajo and the Sioux, the wild men in white robes tearing on horseback through the desert. (But even the old Arab tribes eventually united under Saud in the start of what is a continuing de-tribalization process.) Do you really want to be one of them? A Bantu? A Mohawk? A Shinnecock? You cannot ask to be taken seriously in the modern west as a tribe. Is the Nation of Israel akin to the Navajo Nation? Is The Land of Israel, then, a reservation for the protection of an adorable little oddity of antiquity, the Jewish tribe? Is Israel, like the American Indian reservations, a guilt-offering from the wider world which also serves as a place to isolate people they really don’t want to deal with? Because that what goes down with tribes, you should know.

Well, Sandy Balsam would probably be ok with this and say that it is a good thing to  protect the Jews in Israel in the same way and for the same reasons that America protects–and isolates– its native populations. But we all do hope, don’t we, that the Indian tribes use their reservations to keep their ancient cultures alive. If all they do is run casinos on them, we taxpayers feel we are being had. So if Israel is a tribal reservation, the people who live on the res should practice their tribal ways there, exercise the right to speak and practice their, oh, yes, religion.

Jack points out, rightly, that diaspora Jews feel more pressure to keep the old culture alive than do Jews in Israel who apparently think that being here is enough. Well, think of those Mashantucket Pequots and their casino, say I. Is Israel merely a place you can get a good bagel?

To see Israel of a cultural, rather than a religious, artifact entails the sort of absurdity I heard awhile back on Yom Kippur when a new member at a synagogue stood up to say how grateful she was to have found other Jews in her community to make her feel at home. Now she has new friends to meet with once a week for Mah Jongg! So, then, is this what we are to pass along to our children and our children’s children, this game of painted tiles? Play Mah Jongg, eat noodles, ando count on an abacus! If there is nothing specifically Jewish that you are required to DO to call yourself Jewish, this is where we end up. And I’M NOT GOING THERE!

So (we are still back on Allenby Street having coffee) I am wondering how a city like Tel Aviv sees itself as a Jewish city in a Jewish state if volunteers have to be dragged in from elsewhere to make up the requirement of ten men to hold a Sabbath service when Sabbath observance–along with a single, invisible God– is the very minimum required to be a Jew. That’s where I am on this, no matter how many times I argue it through with Jack. I can never settle for the amoral answer to the question of Jewish Identity and say my religion travels in my blood.

And I fail to understand why merely being in Israel is enough of a Jewish practice. Anyone can be in Israel. And this behavior involves one in a logical circle: If the justification of Israel is that it is a place for Jews to feel safe, and then feeling safe in Israel is enough to make you a Jew….well, you see how this comes out. Jews in Israel, like Jews everywhere need to make an affirmative, conscious–read that  moral–commitment, or the whole house caves in.

HA YAM

So now we go dancing! Of course, DANCING!  This is how Tel Aviv does shabbos. There are more than seventy folk dances, some for couples, some for singles, some in lines, some in circles, some fast, some slow, all of them very, very SEXY. It is a mitzvah, btw, to make love on the Sabbath and I have to suppose that this is what they’re warming up for.

I have wanted to learn these dances since last year. I am amazed that everyone knows them. You hear two or three notes of a song and they begin the complicated stepping and weaving that makes up the dance for that particular song. Where do you learn this? Finally, I get up the courage to ask the men who are playing the music on tapes and cd’s. One of them writes on a piece of paper. Rokdim. com. I have been to that site. It is a list of all the dances, all the songs, the names of the persons who made up each dance and the date on which it was entered on the list. The dates go back to the early seventies. Is this one of those secret Jewish societies? How do I learn to do the dances, not just learn their names?

I pester the man at the Ministry of Tourism. He has gotten to know me through our emails. After saying he is a government official and not responsible for private matters like dance classes or dance clubs, I get tough with him and tell him he is not being helpful to a tourist. So he does a little research and tells me there are classes held on the beach, in front of the Renaissance Hotel, one hour before the dancing starts on Saturdays. Thank you, I say. Now you are being helpful to tourists.

We missed the dance class today because of the agonized discussion over cappuccino on Allenby Street, but we will try again next week. I am determined that Jack will not leave TLV without dancing with me once on the beach. We will have to learn at least one sexy dance.

The beach at the end of Bob Greene's street, a surfing spot and not as corwded as the beach where the dancing takes place or the beach near the port which was mobbed on Shabbat.

The beach promenade is as we remembered it from last year, thronged with people, and the flea market along the port is teeming as well. So it was true, then, that the terribly thin turnout last week was due to fear of getting wet. Ok, they are chickens at heart, these Israelis who give guns to young girls.

 And once, again, the huge dogs are out in force, most of them owned by women as I noted last year. (Men tend to go in for the tiny, cuddly dogs, cockapoos and such. But, as previously noted, this is a country that reads backwards, too.) Great Danes, a Samoyed or two, many German shepherds….but the pet of choice is…THE GOLDEN LAB!

I am very sensitive on this subject. As an owner of a Black Lab, (long deceased, but still MY dog) I can’t help keeping track in a guesstimate sort of way of the number of Yellow and Golden Labs versus the number of Black Labs. And I have to say there is a decided preference among Israelis–an overwhelming preference– for ARYANS!!! (An aside: The Times reported last week that the most popular/populous dog on Long Island is the Black Labrador. Yay!)

Which brings me to the cab driver and, finally, a bit of on-the-street chatter from Tel Aviv:

We needed to take a cab to schul this morning to get there in time. When we gave the driver the address, he said, “What is it? You have a Bar Mitzvah there?”

No, I said.  We just want to be there.

The man shrugged. He knew he had aliens in his car. (We should have seen it as the sign it was that only crazy people go to schul, even to the GREAT SYNAGOGUE.)

A long silence. Many red lights, many stops as we proceed along Ben Yehuda Street to Allenby.

And then, suddenly, from out of nowhere, “There are too many Black people in Israel!”

Huh? I look around quickly and see a single thin Black boy, his shoulders hunched, his hands crammed into the pockets of his jeans, walking along the empty shabbos street.

How many? I ask.

Way too many. It’s terrible. A terrible thing for Israel.

Ethiopians?

No, from Niger. They walk across the desert into Egypt, and then they walk across more desert to come here. It’s terrible. They sneak across the border. It’s illegal!

I understand, I say. They come here to look for work.

It’s  terrible. Way too many of them. the government has to do something.

Really? Do they turn to crime because they can’t find jobs?

They bring everything bad with them. Crime and everything filthy.

Well, I say, now that Egypt will get better soon, perhaps they will want to stay in Egypt.

Egypt is also terrible, he says.

Has the situation in Egypt affected tourism here in Tel Aviv?

No, not much. I don’t think it makes any difference. We are going to have to do something to stop all those Black people, though. There are too many of them here.

Are you worried about what’s happening now in Egypt?

Not so much. We have to wait and see what happens.

That’s it, folks. You’ve been asking how the Israeli on the street feels about the situation in Egypt. The taxi driver is worried. But not so worried as he is about the situation in Niger.

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February 6: Birds, Cats and Chickens in Tel Aviv

With everyone cautioning us about canceled flights and “trouble in Egypt,” we flew off pretty much on time in a plane fully loaded with people whose Newark flights had been canceled, and feeling that we’d escaped by the skin of our teeth.

We didn’t mind the cold and rain the first three days here as we were suffering with jetlag. But this morning, just as we were coming to ourselves, the sun burst through, yellow and warming, and the trees outside were filled with birds. Our livingroom/diningroom/kitchen has a floor-to-ceiling set of sliding windows along the entire back wall, and I sat staring out, sipping my tea, and watching mourning doves, small grey and yellow birds that might have been finches, and the most gorgeous shiny black bird, only slightly bigger than a hummingbird, with irridescent, emerald-colored wings. I thought as I studied the mottled backs of my aging hands that “man” is not such a hot “piece of work” when compared with birds. The beauty of the world, the paragon of animals…and, as you may know, birds are very, very smart. Intelligence is not a matter of brain size but, rather, of the ratio of brain weight to body weight which, in birds, is very high. I regret that I did not bring binoculars but, really, they come so close I hesitate to open the slider for fear they will come in and perch on my teacup.

Our apartment looks out on trees, of course, but below there is both a dog park and a kiddie park, both thankfully fairly quiet. This morning as I watched grandparents pushing toddlers in the swings, I realized that this proximity to other people’s lives that is a feature of urban life can really be a joy, so long as the urban milieu is not New York. Tel Aviv is such a perfect blend of excitement and leisureliness, of hubbub and quiet, and a city in which I relax because I trust everyone so completely.

The cats, as expected, are still on patrol. As in any southern Mediterranean port there are millions of cats swarming through the city feeding, apparently, on fish. Perhaps they are also drawn here by mice and rats but do such a good job ridding the city of rodents that we have never seen any. Last year, a battalion of cats–we came to think of it as a bordello of cats–took up residence in our back yard and on our roof; all day and all night they screamed in heat, drawing what had to be scores of possible mates to our yard. We called “Animal Control” and they scoffed. We called our broker and he smiled: Yes, there are many cats in Tel Aviv.

Desperate, we found at a pet supply store a spray guaranteed to rid the area of cats. It had to be fairly toxic; it was locked away in a glass case. Jack took the can outside planning to spray the garbage bins, the bases of the trees they climbed to get to our roof, and some of the ground in the yard. Instantly, the yard grew silent.

“Wow,” I said, “that worked like a charm. Are you sure you got all the tree bases and the bins?”

Jack grinned. “I didn’t bother,” he said, “I just sprayed all the cats!”

Well, we are happy to report that the cat army is still on patrol at every alley and corner; they are nesting on the tops of our garbage bins, and resting on public benches and on the seats at outdoor restaurants. We are here a month later this year and so far it seems that the “heat” is over.

But there is another bit of cat news: On our stroll down Dizengoff Street (the street of a thousand bridal shops) we saw a tiny boutique all dolled up in pink and sequins, a coy, scalloped awning arching over its entrance. “Cat Parlour” it said in florid, purple script.

CAT PARLOUR????? In this city of millions of feral cats people keep them as pets? They put collars on them and take them out to have a pedicure? They buy them pink sweaters and fuzzy pink pillows? There are more cats roaming about Tel Aviv than there are squirrels in Central Park. Would you bring your pet squirrel to have his nails done? Ah, Tel Aviv! So many charming surprises!

And now for the chickens. There are no chickens in the streets of Tel Aviv and this, we surmise, is that, being chicken, they have stayed home. Last winter we were here in January, a colder month than February. On shabbat, at the beach, the square ouside the Renaissance Hotel was packed with dancers, whirling to taped Israeli music.

On the narrow pavement running along the harbor, crowds were so thick outside Fisherman Benny’s that we feared being thrown off the pier and into the drink by one of those fiercely managed strollers packed with triplets. On the patio and beach outside Mezezim, people waited in a queue for the chance to sprawl in a beach chair on the sand and sip iced  capuccino or a beer. WHERE IS EVERYONE???

The beach was empty yesterday. The dancers were few and the best of them were nowhere to be seen. The waitress at the entrance to Fisherman Benny’s  fairly dragged us in, and our waitress at Mezezim this afternoon pretended not to notice when, after a restful two hours, we signalled for the check.

Serious Kadima

Where is everyone, we asked. She shrugged.

I am having difficulty captioning these photos but you are looking at the beach on Sahbbat: A paltry few dancers, a couple sunbathing after a bike ride, a few biker riders, a fierce game of Kadima–always fierce in Israel.

Tonight, our broker and general guide in Israel, Eli, came to check in on us–and pick up the balance of the rent. We asked where everyone was. Oh, they stayed home because the weather has been so wet.

Are you sure the tourists haven’t stayed in THEIR homes, fearful of the “turmoil in Egypt?”  It was gorgeous today, warm and blue and gold. We basked at the beach and Jack got a tan.

Yes, but for Israelis this is weather to stay at home.

Your blogger--no chicken she--samples the exercise equipment at one of the outdoor gyms found all along the beach and in every public park.

Really. I was thinking of the girls in khaki we had seen, toting their rifles along Hayarkon Street earlier in the day.

So this is the about the chickens of Tel Aviv.

Now of course you are wondering why, with The Land of the Pharaohs in turmoil just down the block, I am going on about cats and birds and such. Well, you know that we are seeing the same bad tv coverage you are, coverage that did not discover until three days later that the new VP had survived an assassination attempt; coverage that runs the same loops over and over. I can only say what I imagine a lot of people are saying at home: Obama has been a real embarassment here. The Egyptians and the Israelis are both disappointed at all the fumbling, and that former ambassador muddying the waters of the Nile didn’t help either.

But if you are wondering how the Israelis “on the street” seem to be taking it, I have to say I don’t see many signals; if they are more worried than they were last year, it isn’t showing. If they are more fed up with Obama, that isn’t showing either. If they dislike Americans now, I have to concede that that might be showing, just a little. We are not greeted with happy smiles this year. For myself, I feel as I did when W announced the start of the Iraq war. I was in St. Kitts that week and found myself apologizing to every cab driver and waiter and begging them to understand that I did not vote for him.

And this is not to say that I would know what Obama should have done: Back the protesters (and sell Israel out, as they would see it,) or back Mubarak (and stand against “democracy.”) Yes, Netanyahu is correct: Democracy is not a simple thing and is not always the best thing. So,no, I don’t know what Obama could have done but from where we are sitting–right down the block from the turmoil–it looks like a great big fumfer.

More subjectively, I have to say that knowing this is happening right down the block does make a big difference. We know for ourselves exactly what time it is and how the air feels and what color the sky is as we watch Tahrir Square on our tv screen. We see the live coverage on BBC and the world is at that same moment here, outside the sliding windows where the birds are at play. We see the sun setting over Cairo and it is setting exactly that way in our sky. It makes a difference. I expect, somehow, when I open the front door and step out into  Shalag Street, that if I listen carefully, I will hear the shouts rising and the Molotov cocktails exploding, and even though I can’t, it seems I do. Distances are so short, the country so small.

And this is how Israel lives. All the time.

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